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00:00Hello, I'm Adam Liao and welcome to The Cook-Up, the show where left is the one that makes an L
00:26shape, but if you're watching TV from your perspective, it is still the one that makes
00:30an L shape. Spooky. Tonight we are making goigar, roasted scallops with cafe da pari butter and
00:36mushroom pappadella. Let's meet our guests. Jason Barrett is the executive chef of Supernormal
00:40in Brisbane. His CV is as impressive as his cooking. He's previously worked at the likes
00:44of Paper Daisy, Rais on What It Goes and Attica. Welcome, Jason. Thanks for having me, Adam.
00:48Great to have you here. Comedian, writer and award-winning poet Anissa Nandala has performed
00:53on some of the largest stages in Australia, including Splendour in the Grass, the Woodford
00:58Folk Festival and the Sydney Opera House. She says that billabong ice creams bring her much
01:02joy. Hi, Anissa. Hi, thank you for having me. I'm going to out myself here and say I do not
01:08know what a billabong ice cream is. The paddle pop ice creams, like the chocolate. Oh, okay.
01:14Yeah. Yeah. I've never had one. Can I tell you that? I think they're discontinued. I haven't
01:19seen them in ages. You haven't lived. Jason, you have worked in some of the most iconic
01:28restaurants of Melbourne. And in fact, I think if you've worked at places like Circle of the
01:33Prince, Attica, you then go to Brisbane and you are very much a fish out of water. How
01:40can you be so entrenched in Melbourne dining and then go to another state? Don't you have
01:45to die in Melbourne? Kind of, yeah. That's why I left. Describe Brisbane dining to me in
01:52three words. It's young, energetic and it's fun. I actually agree. It's really very cool
02:02in Brisbane at the moment as far as the food scene goes. And Anissa, you live in Brisbane.
02:06Yes, I do. Most of the food is out of my price bracket. Hang on, the dining is young, cool
02:15and fun and you're young, cool and fun and you can't dine at the young, cool and fun
02:18places. Young, cool, fun and poor. Just come on and I'll look after you. I'm bringing my
02:22whole family. They're watching. World records will tumble tonight as we make rapid recipes.
02:29It's weird that I would write 10 cookbooks and then I have to mock up a new cookbook for
02:35the purposes of that. Anyway. And Anissa, I didn't even ask you before, do you like cooking?
02:41I, yeah, I used to hate cooking but I love it now. Okay. Yeah, made a huge jump. Jason,
02:47what about you? Fast game is a good game? Fast game, love it. I am first off the blocks
02:52with my rapid recipe, goigar. So, uh, goigar, I'm not pronouncing it correctly but I don't
03:03know how to pronounce it correctly because I don't want to speak Vietnamese but it is a
03:05Vietnamese chicken soup. Um, I'm going to poach a chicken breast. I've just got some water
03:10boiling, seasoned, that was some salt and this is a frankly giant chicken breast so it's probably
03:17going to take a little bit longer. My formula for poaching chicken breast is boiling water,
03:24one and a half litres, salt, maybe a tablespoon, two chicken breasts in, in a heavy pot. The pot's
03:31got to be heavy and then, uh, I mean I'm only putting one chicken breast in because this is a
03:36very big one but then I turn off the heat, cover it with a lid and turn it off and just leave that
03:41to cool down and that tends to, I checked the inside with a thermometer, after about 20 minutes
03:47the temperature usually comes to about 62, 63 degrees which I think is the, a good internal
03:52temperature for, uh, a chicken and I know a lot of people love chicken breast so this is a very simple
03:58way of just making a, like a nice chicken breast salad I guess. Anissa, you started off in poetry.
04:06Yes. And now you have switched to comedy. Are they not completely different things?
04:13Yeah, they're vastly different, like when you're doing poetry and you're performing you don't know
04:19if people like it or not but if you're doing stand-up instantly people are like oh no. Sometimes
04:24I'll tell you that's bad. Yeah right. Yeah. You don't really get hecklers at a poetry slam do you?
04:29No, you don't. Like why the, why the audience is so different? Like why do people feel at stand-up
04:36comedy that it's okay to like participate? I think because in poetry you're sharing your heart and
04:42your soul, usually traumatic things. Yeah but comedy is the same. Nobody, like, it is the same. People are not
04:48just like oh I'm just gonna crack a few jokes, like they are mining the most secret, you I should say,
04:54mining the most secret parts of your insecurity to make people laugh. Yeah, I agree 100%. I think
05:02because most people think comedy is so easy that as soon as someone's not funny they're like oh I
05:08can give them a hand. You're not doing a good job. Kind of similar to being a chef I guess if you make
05:13a bad meal someone will tell you. Really? Yeah. Oh they'll tell you online. No. So what I'm doing is I'm just
05:21sort of putting some salad ingredients together and the base of this salad is going to be a little
05:24bit of cabbage. I'm using two different kinds here, you could obviously use one and I'm just
05:29going to shred a little bit of carrot to go in there too. This is great if you're looking for like
05:35a fast thing, these little julienne peelers. In a restaurant you would do it by hand so it looks
05:40fancy, it looks nicer but if you're looking at home to do something very quickly I think you actually
05:45get a really good result with these. Now kind of to me the most important part of this is the dressing
05:51and if you know how to make a dressing like this, I don't know you can just do it with anything. So
05:55the important part is getting the right balance of sweet, sour and savoury. So salty, savoury. So I've
06:02got sugar for sweetness, this is some lime juice for sourness and you could use vinegar, you could use
06:08honey, like anything sweet, anything sour, anything savoury. You could use, if you didn't like fish sauce,
06:13you could use soy sauce, if you're gluten free you could use tamari, that kind of thing. But I just wanted to
06:18just show people how to do this because essentially we only taste five things, salty, sweet, sour, bitter,
06:25umami. There might be a couple more, let's not get into it. But when you're making a dressing like this,
06:31you want it to, when you're trying to balance three things and people find that quite difficult,
06:35you're balancing sweet, sour but then also salty. So if you mix all those things together you're like
06:39oh I don't know how to make this taste better. But if you just mix two together, which right now we've
06:44mixed sweet and sour, we're actually very good at knowing how that tastes. You know we know what
06:50tastes good there, if like if I taste that oh it needs more sugar. So we can add some more sugar in
06:57and give that a stir and then we just know how to fix that, like it's a pretty natural thing.
07:01Whereas if you put everything and you're like oh it tastes wrong, I don't know which one to add.
07:05So then now that you get that to a point where, and make sure you dissolve all the sugar at this point,
07:11because otherwise you're going to get a false representation of how sweet and sour it is.
07:18Much better. Now that that has happened, change spoons and you can add as much or as little of
07:26the fish sauce as you like because there's no sweetness or sourness in this. It's not going
07:31to change that balance of sweet and sour. So as I add my fish sauce in, I know that what I'm doing is
07:37essentially getting this to the point where instead of being sweet and sour like lemonade,
07:41it's going to be savoury like a dressing. That's just the easiest way that I find to tell people
07:46how to do this. Okay that's nice and salty. I want it to be slightly more salty because once it goes
07:53over all of these other ingredients it's going to need to be a little saltier to season those.
07:59Then I can add in my chilli and garlic which I'll just slice. I'm not actually going to bother
08:02pounding it in the mortar and pestle today. What made you want to move up to Brisbane? Because
08:08I mean honestly Jason, like from Hector's Deli to Stoke House to Attica, like you've kind of done,
08:16did you just exhaust all the restaurants in Melbourne? A little bit. I just wanted the change
08:21and I hadn't worked outside of Melbourne before. So an opportunity came up to work at Raise on Watergoes
08:26in Byron. So I just took that leap and went up there and then I guess just slowly kept making
08:32my way more north until I got to Brisbane and I'm going to stop there. I do find though that Queensland
08:39has a completely different, not just in terms of how's the restaurants in Queensland kind of thing,
08:44but there's a whole different cuisine. The produce there is amazing too. It's just
08:48the climate. Well yeah, part of that's migration, part of that is access to a lot of Southeast Asian
08:53tropical type ingredients that we, you wouldn't get in Melbourne for example. Definitely. You get
08:57them, they're just not as good. You have to travel all the way down. So I'm picking a few different
09:02herbs here. I've got some mint, coriander, some Vietnamese mint and this is some perilla,
09:11which I'll just slice. And you can make this just with mint, you can make it just with coriander.
09:17I, herbs are very expensive these days. So to be honest, I don't make this unless I come across
09:24a lot of herbs at a cheap price or because I grow mint at home. If I have a lot of mint at home,
09:30I will just make it with mint. But it's, to me, it's just like you've got to adapt recipes to what
09:35you have. So while we have some of these things here, I'm just going to run a knife very, very roughly
09:40through that. But I want the pieces that to be quite big. And now I can shred my chicken breasts.
09:47Jason, what's the food cost on something like herbs in a restaurant?
09:52Depends if you have a garden or not. If you have a garden, it's great.
09:55Do you have a garden?
09:56Used to.
09:56Yeah.
09:57Not anymore. In the city, no. We have some good suppliers. So yeah, we get it for a good price.
10:04But again, it depends on what you're after, what time of the year it is.
10:07You know, you can't use perilla 12 months of the year.
10:11Exactly. So now I just want to shred my chicken. You can see that that poaching just leaves it
10:15really, really tender. And the thing that I always do when I do this is I actually salt
10:19my hands. So as my hands get a bit wet from poaching the chicken, I just keep rubbing salt
10:24in my hands and that just seasons the chicken as I pick through it.
10:27Nice.
10:28Cool.
10:28It's quite an easy process. I'll put the rest of the chicken back in there. It's actually still
10:31warm, which is great. And we're really just finishing it off now. Those herbs can go in
10:37nice generous few spoons of our dressing.
10:43I'll start to toss that together. And the thing I really want to do is make sure I get
10:47there's some fried shallots and some crushed peanuts there. And that
10:51texture is going to be really important. The cabbage is a nice texture anyway,
10:55as is the chicken. But I think having that extra little bit of texture there from the other
11:00ingredients is very, very important. Nice kind of handful on top there. And then we'll finish it with
11:11just lots of texture, I think.
11:14Peanuts roasted, make sure you roast them yourself because they have a lot better flavour than if you
11:18don't. And fried shallots. Those you can buy. You don't have to fry them yourself.
11:24A Vietnamese style chicken salad.
11:25It's delicious.
11:33Mmm. So much flavour.
11:36Thank you. You're out with the herbs, fresh.
11:38Mmm.
11:39Mmm. Chicken's cooked perfectly.
11:40So soft.
11:42When you're trying to get the balance of the dressing right, it really is up to your personal
11:46preference. Like this is probably not as sweet as some people might like it, but I actually prefer
11:52it to be like if you're having a whole salad as a meal, which is kind of what this is, if you have
11:57a really sweet dressing, it can actually be really sweet towards the end of it. So this is far more on
12:01the savoury side, but that's how I like it. After the break, Jason and Anissa will get cooking quickly.
12:17Welcome back to The Cook-Up, where chef Jason Barrett and comedian Anissa Nandala are wasting
12:21no time with their rapid recipes. Anissa, what is your dish? Mushroom pappardelle.
12:26Lovely. And Jason?
12:27We've got roasted skolas with cafe di pari butter.
12:29Ooh, exciting times.
12:31Jason, cafe di pari butter. How do you make your cafe di pari butter?
12:43Well, it's a pretty classic recipe. So I've got some capers, some anchovies, curry powder.
12:49Tarragon. Tarragon. Now you see, tarragon is a five, it's a $5 herb. And I say that in terms of
12:58once you put it in a dish on a menu, you can charge an extra $5 for it.
13:01Exactly right.
13:01Because it's a fantastic herb and they don't sell it in supermarkets anymore.
13:04That's true. You just have a little pot on the balcony.
13:06Yeah.
13:07There you go. But yeah, I've got a little bit of curry powder, some paprika, garlic,
13:13mustard, and some vermouth as well.
13:16Okay. Fantastic. Traditionally served with steaks, obviously, but fantastic with seafood.
13:21I think fantastic with everything.
13:22Yeah.
13:22Yeah, it's so delicious. And the best thing about this recipe is you can make it
13:26in a big batch, freeze it down, and then basically, yeah, when you cook up a steak
13:31at home on the barbie, you just pull it out.
13:32Like, I do not know a single chef who does not have some kind of compound butter in their
13:38fridge or freezer at home at any given moment.
13:40Yeah, definitely. This is a really easy, fast recipe to have, especially when the butter's made.
13:48Or you just grab some scolts from the local fishmonger. These ones we've got here are
13:52from Harvey Bay.
13:53Yeah.
13:53So nice and local to where we are.
13:55Fantastic.
13:57So in with the herbs.
13:58Beautiful.
14:01I'm going to crush some capers as well.
14:05I like to keep them kind of whole.
14:06Yes.
14:07I don't want to go too...
14:09One thing I kind of struggle with sometimes when it comes to compound butters is that
14:14current domestic grills in ovens are very bad, in my opinion.
14:20That's true.
14:21Because they're all, like, the ovens are much better because they're electric,
14:23they're temperature controlled, but you can't kind of, you know, in the old days where you
14:27have the grill on and the door open and just grill the top of something, it doesn't work anymore.
14:31I think the key is, for this recipe, anyway, with scallops, because they're so thin,
14:34all you've got to do is just blast the oven really hot.
14:36Sure.
14:37Plus have the grill on and on, and it just takes a couple of minutes.
14:39Yeah.
14:40And actually, you know, I have come around to just having the butter kind of at room temperature,
14:45just spreading it off.
14:46Exactly.
14:46You know, rather than having to make sure it's bruleed or melted or anything.
14:49Nah.
14:50And, you know, like I said, this is a really, really easy recipe.
14:53You really do have one of the longest resumes I've seen for a chef.
14:57You've worked kind of everywhere, and it's so many kind of iconic institutions,
15:02not just in Melbourne, but around the country.
15:04Yeah.
15:06Was that an active choice?
15:07Because I think it's, if it was, I think it's a very smart one.
15:10It was.
15:10I, every time I move on, I try and do something better.
15:13Yeah.
15:13So, and it's whether that be a better role or a better place, or as long as I keep learning,
15:17that's the main thing.
15:18And I, I, I'm doing that.
15:20Yeah.
15:21Even in my current role, I'm learning every day.
15:23So.
15:23Fantastic.
15:24Yeah.
15:25So that's pretty much everything in there.
15:26I'm just going to put a bit of Dijon mustard.
15:28And does the, the, the vermuth go in there as well?
15:30Just a little bit.
15:31Okay.
15:31Yeah.
15:32So I'll pop a bit in first, just to bind it, and then a little bit at the end as well.
15:35And then I like to put lemon zest in.
15:38Beautiful.
15:39And then we'll serve it with lemon as well.
15:40Amazing.
15:41I love this.
15:42And these, uh, mushroom pappadelli.
15:46Oh, yes.
15:48So tell me about your, um, history with cooking.
15:52Have you always like, I've always loved it, or, you know, I do it because now I need to survive.
15:56I actually really disliked cooking.
16:00And then it's been like maybe 10 years since I've been back to Uganda.
16:05And cooking is my only way to connect with those flavors.
16:08Okay.
16:08Make me remember home.
16:09So this is a traditional Ugandan mushroom pappadelli.
16:12Exactly.
16:13Back from my village.
16:16The smell of garlic frying and olive oil is one of the best things in the world.
16:19I don't understand how anyone could not like it, but what else are we putting in?
16:22We are going to put in some mushrooms.
16:24Great.
16:25That's right.
16:25And we're going to put them in right now.
16:27Please.
16:28So as somebody who, I guess, began as a poet, what was the change to going to stand-up
16:38comedy?
16:39The main change was facing my fears and doing it every night.
16:44Yes.
16:45When people say, stop doing it.
16:46And you're like, no.
16:48Well, then this is the thing about stand-up comedians as well.
16:50It's not like, oh, I'm going to go do a show this week or next, maybe in a month's time,
16:54I'll do a show.
16:55You are gigging constantly.
16:57Yeah, every night, multiple times a night.
17:00Like, I remember my mum came and watched a show where I didn't do that well.
17:03Someone was heckling me.
17:05And she's like, and you'll do it again?
17:06I'm like, oh, yeah.
17:07I'd be like, see you same time next week.
17:09Wow.
17:10Yeah, it's crazy.
17:12You've got to be tough to be a stand-up comic.
17:14Um, not tough, but you just have to keep going.
17:17No matter how difficult it gets, no matter how much people tell you you suck,
17:20you just can't stop.
17:22Because eventually you'll get better.
17:23This is a really smart way of cooking mushrooms, can I say, just while I mention it, just adding
17:29a bit of the, well, pasta water, but it's not actually pasta yet because you haven't put the pasta in,
17:33just to stop things from burning.
17:35Because mushrooms will release their own liquid as they have done,
17:37but sometimes they need a little bit of help to do that.
17:39So, great.
17:43Jason, they're some beautiful looking scallops.
17:46They are, they're so good.
17:47They're actually on the larger side too.
17:50So we're all done now.
17:51All nice and mixed, seasoned up really good.
17:53I'm just going to put a little bit of butter on each.
17:55When I say a little bit.
17:56Yeah, that wasn't a little bit.
17:57You know what I'm saying.
17:59So you've got the scallops sitting on sea salt.
18:03Yeah, it just keeps them level.
18:05Okay.
18:06Make sure the butter stays inside the shell.
18:08With these scallops, they've just got a light concave to them.
18:11Yep.
18:12And you don't want to lose that butter that's in there.
18:14Definitely don't.
18:15It's the main bit.
18:16You think about how straightforward this would be to do at home.
18:21You know, you make that butter half an hour making that.
18:26Not even.
18:26Yeah.
18:27And the thing is as well, you have these scallops in your freezer as well.
18:29So when you come home or even in the morning,
18:31you pull them out of the freezer, defrost them in the fridge.
18:32Yeah.
18:33When you get home, it's under a five minute job.
18:36The thing is, I think it helps people look at things differently when they're shopping,
18:39to be honest.
18:40Definitely.
18:40Like, you can go through the fishmonger or you can go to the butcher and say,
18:43oh, there's a nice steak.
18:44I've got that butter at home.
18:45I can do that with it.
18:46If you go through the fishmonger, you see these scallops on the half shell,
18:48normally you'd be like, oh, well, I don't know what to do with that.
18:50But you go, I've got the butter at home.
18:51I can do that with it.
18:52Exactly.
18:52A lobster with a steak on top of it.
18:54Lobster especially.
18:55Yeah, that's a special occasion.
18:56Amazing.
18:58So how long do they go on the oven?
18:59I'd say two minutes.
19:00Two minutes.
19:01Okay.
19:01Super fast.
19:02Really hot.
19:03Really fast.
19:04Amazing.
19:04Yeah.
19:06Anissa, okay.
19:08Pappadella going into the water.
19:09Yes.
19:10Lovely.
19:11I'll give that a little stir for you.
19:14And the mushrooms look fantastic.
19:15Like, you can see once that liquid evaporates,
19:17essentially what happens is the mushrooms release their own mushroom juice,
19:22which then becomes like a concentrated mushroom flavour that you can see kind of browning around
19:26the outside there.
19:27It looks really good.
19:28What are you putting in now?
19:29So this is some cream and then I'm going to follow that up with cheese.
19:34Lovely.
19:35Were you taught how to cook?
19:37Like, did your parents show you how to cook things or is this like a self-taught thing
19:43that we're doing here?
19:44Yeah, definitely self-taught.
19:45My mother tried, but I just wasn't, I didn't like being told what to do.
19:50So cooking just became a thing where I was like, oh, I can't eat McDonald's every day
19:56and I don't want to die.
19:57So when you return, these rapid recipes will rapidly disappear because it is time to taste.
20:02And we'll talk about speeding up in the kitchen by speeding up your knife skills.
20:17Welcome back to The Cook Up.
20:18Don't worry, you haven't accidentally hit the fast forward button on your VCR.
20:21Jason Barrett and Anissa Nandala are just making some rapid recipes.
20:25Anissa, how's it looking?
20:26Delicious.
20:27It does look delicious.
20:28And speaking of delicious, Jason, look at those.
20:31They're ready to go.
20:32Wow.
20:33The colour that the curry powder and the aroma.
20:35I mean, you can really smell the aroma of the curry powder in the butter there.
20:39It's not a common thing to put in café de pari butter, but I think it just adds another
20:43element, especially with seafood as well.
20:46What I've got here, as I put the rocket on the base, this also helps to hold the skull
20:49up steady.
20:50Yeah, okay.
20:50But there's a little trick at the end.
20:51Oh, is there?
20:52You pour the butter onto the lettuce and then you have a little nice buttery salad to finish.
20:57I love that.
20:58I really do.
20:59That's it.
21:00You'd pay a lot of money for that super normal in Brisbane, wouldn't you?
21:04Love it.
21:04Vanessa, look at this.
21:08That is a beautiful looking plate of pappadelli.
21:11Yes, it is.
21:13It's really good.
21:17You had a real, like, chef-y air about you just then.
21:20I didn't want to ruin your flow.
21:23I'm trying to impress you.
21:24Can you tell us?
21:26A little bit, to be honest.
21:28Roasted scallops with café de pari butter and mushroom pappadelli.
21:34And Nisa, I like the way you've gone around about this mushroom pappadelli.
21:44I really do.
21:45It's really good.
21:46It is delicious.
21:47Mm.
21:47Mm.
21:48Pastors cooked perfectly.
21:49Really creamy.
21:50It's delicious.
21:51It really is delicious.
21:52Yeah.
21:53All right, Jason.
21:55The scallop.
21:56Don't forget to put a bit of lemon on there.
21:58Yeah.
22:00Oh, my.
22:02So good.
22:02Mm.
22:04And just pour that butter on the lettuce.
22:07That's incredible.
22:08It's a little salad to finish.
22:09I kind of want to pour the butter on lettuce, pour it back into the pasta,
22:13and just eat everything together.
22:14Definitely.
22:15You can eat a dozen of those.
22:16No problem.
22:18Amazing.
22:18That's great.
22:19Two great recipes, both executed very, very rapidly.
22:25But I thought I'd talk about one of the most important things about fast cooking,
22:28which is that the time it takes for things to cook actually doesn't change that much.
22:32Like a mushroom's going to fry in the same amount of time,
22:33a scallop's going to cook in the same amount of time.
22:36What tends to take people a lot of time is things like cutting and preparation.
22:40So if you're wanting to take a little bit more time off the amount of time that you spend cooking,
22:48cutting is one of the most important things to learn.
22:50Jason, would you agree?
22:51Totally.
22:52Couldn't agree more.
22:53When it comes to cutting an onion, if I'm cutting it into like a brunoise or a macedoine or something,
22:58which is like a little dice, I actually cut horizontally first.
23:02Jason, thoughts?
23:04Yeah.
23:05I know a lot of people, like I see a lot of chefs doing this,
23:08and some cut horizontally, some cut vertically.
23:10But the important part is to leave the end on.
23:13And then if you cut, I just find if you cut horizontally,
23:15it's easy to do these vertical cuts to the spacing that you want.
23:19And then as you cut through, it becomes very easy to get that fine dice.
23:23Yeah.
23:24And when you're doing an onion as well, having a sharp knife helps with the tears.
23:28If I'm slicing, I actually take the butt off, and then I can slice through
23:33and get those nice fine cuts there.
23:36And then when you get to that end, just tip him over,
23:41and then you can cut through that again.
23:44Perfect.
23:44Great.
23:45Mushrooms are probably my favourite thing to cut.
23:48The thing with cutting, I think, is people want to cut fast,
23:52so they think they've got to cut fast.
23:53You've actually got to cut slow first to cut fast,
23:56because essentially what you're doing is trying to get that range of motion
23:59so you never get the knife above your knuckles.
24:01When you get above your knuckles, that's when you're going to hurt yourself.
24:03So if you just get a mushroom, if you're cutting it with a stalk on,
24:07you balance it there, you can just cut very slowly until you cut quickly.
24:12And then the faster you go, the easier it...
24:15The longer you do it, the easier it gets to go fast.
24:18But if you start to try to cut fast, you're going to cut yourself and cut badly.
24:22So start slow to get fast.
24:23With everything in life.
24:25Learn it slow.
24:27Jason and Nisa, thank you so much for joining me.
24:28This has been a lot of fun.
24:29Thanks, Adam.
24:29Thank you for having me.
24:30Every minute you save, making our rapid recipes can be spent savouring the results.
24:35If you want more of The Cook Up and more delicious food ideas, head to SBS On Demand.
24:38I'm Adam Liao.
24:38Thanks for watching The Cook Up.
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