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The Great British Sewing Bee Season 11 Episode 1
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00:00New series, old presenter. Well, older anyway. Here we are again in beautiful
00:08Yorkshire about to put 12 home sewers through their paces. Knees up, it's time
00:13to get in shape gang. I've lost the judges. You said we needed to get in
00:18shape for this series. So we did. I've missed you too. Welcome to the Great British Sewing Me.
00:26Sewing is something I can't live without, so I can't actually believe I'm here. You
00:33can't watch the Sewing Bee because it's too tense, so why have you gone on it? 12 brand
00:39new home sewers are about to enter the sewing room for the very first time. I'm feeling
00:47like I've walked onto a movie set. 80% excited and 20%. And over the next 10 weeks, they'll
00:54be faced with challenges to test their precision. Oh gosh, this is going to be touch and go.
00:59Creativity. Oh, that's so fun. And ability to fit a model. That's very booby. Some things,
01:06you eventually become an expert in it. You can't complete sewing. All under the watchful
01:10eye of judges Esme Young and Patrick Grant. The challenges Patrick and I have set for the
01:16Sewers this year are really ambitious. Things they've never done before. I think you've
01:21accidentally made a shower cap. As always, we are looking for technical execution, great
01:27creativity. It's given me French fries. It's given me ketchup. It's given me napkin. And
01:32we're looking for personality to shine through. That's what I'm looking forward to. Producing
01:36my form of art. Like a bit bonded. Aren't we all? I think I'm the youngest, but that's
01:42fine. Hopefully experience isn't everything. Don't cross a Welsh ground man. Who will grab
01:48garment of the week? Thrilling brilliant. And who will unravel? This is a nightmare. I can't
01:53even know what is going on. This is the worst thing I've ever sewn. And fall apart. Oh
01:59yeah. What on earth were you thinking? I don't know.
02:29Come forward sewers. Welcome to the sewing room. What's the difference between having
02:42a baby and sewing? Well, they both involve labour, love and careful stitching. Only one
02:51of them is judged by the formidable Patrick and Esme. This week is all about adding shape
02:58to garments. And we're going to jump straight in with the pattern challenge. Esme, what have
03:02we got? Can you pass them round?
03:05Ooh! Okay.
03:08So, what you've got is tie front blouse. And the shape is created by gathers. Now, the success
03:16of this blouse depends on the quality of those gathers. In the haberdashery, we have a vast
03:21array of fabrics, so choose wisely. You will all be tied, but there can only be one winner.
03:27Yay! You have three and a half hours for this, your first ever pattern challenge. Lots
03:33and lots of luck. Your time starts now. Stampede!
03:38No, no, no, no, no! No! No!
03:42The fabric the sewers pick could be the making or breaking of their shapely gathered blouses.
03:48Oh, I'm so scared about which fabric to choose. Too flowy, and it will be difficult to create
03:54volume. My fabric's quite light, but I just think it's bold and beautiful. This one has
04:00a bit of stiffness. Too bulky, and it will be tough to gather tightly. I think this is going
04:05to work out really nice. It does help. It's got bores on, and Esme is one of the judges.
04:09A tie front blouse. Something tells me it's not as easy as it looks.
04:16The big challenge here is to put neat and even gathering into both shoulders and into this
04:23peplum at the front. It's really important that we can't see the gather stitch.
04:28How could they impress you? Choosing a good fabric that gives the garment enough bounce,
04:33you know, makes use of those gathers. A really drapey fabric won't have the shape that we want.
04:40Also, the choice of colour and pattern will be important, and the choice of colour of the tie,
04:45because they're quite an obvious feature on the front, and they will have a big impact
04:49on the overall look of it. Thank you so much, guys. That was fascinating.
04:57I love what we're making. Like, love, love, love, love, love.
05:01It's just the fabric's so flowy. I'm just having such a problem with it on the table.
05:07I should get reading the instructions rather than just randomly cutting out pieces of fabric.
05:13To start the tie front blouse, the front and back bodice sections are attached at the shoulder and sides.
05:19Next, the peplum pieces are joined, gathered along the top edge, and sewn to the bottom of the bodice.
05:25The sleeves are then assembled and gathered at the head before being inserted.
05:30Six ribbon ties are basted onto the front bodice and sandwiched into place between the fabric and facing.
05:38Finally, the blouse is finished with a deep hem.
05:42They're pretty confident in the design. They've done gathered sleeves before.
05:46But I don't like peplums. I'm a peplum hater.
05:48Nineteen-year-old Orla is a student from Inverness.
05:52She learnt to sew at school, but her sewing style is anything but uniform.
05:56I like to upcycle items and turn them into garments.
06:00So I've had my chains. Those are my chain jeans, so they had bicycle chain segments.
06:05I've got the jumper suit, which was a jumpsuit made out of jumpers.
06:09That's always the goal. Get a pun in there.
06:11How did you choose this fabric?
06:13I, first of all, was really drawn to the colour.
06:15I think it's one of my favourite colours in the entire world.
06:17And also, the texture of it was really interesting.
06:20Yeah.
06:21What is this thing on your shoulder?
06:23It says Miss Third Eye. Like she needs an extra one.
06:26See y'all. Put a sticker on your back.
06:28I've got four eyes.
06:29Alright, it's your fifth eye.
06:31Right.
06:33I'm not used to making ready-to-wear for women. It's all costumes.
06:38Dan is an entertainer from Durham, and when he's not busy whipping up stage outfits,
06:43he's setting parties alight.
06:48My sewn style is, if it looks good from a distance, I'm happy. Don't look too close.
06:54So, fire-eating? Fire-breathing.
06:56Fire-breathing? Yeah.
06:57Both. Both.
06:58In and out.
06:59Yes. It's a two-way street.
07:00Yes.
07:01I was thinking if you didn't like what someone else had made, or you were jealous,
07:04that would be the perfect excuse to just burp and...
07:06Yeah. Yeah.
07:07It's gone.
07:08Absolutely.
07:09I've made tie-front blouses before. This is one of them.
07:12That's very much the kind of style I like to sew.
07:15Scientist Yasmin caught the sewing bug from her dad.
07:19My dad was one of the most amazing people in the world. He loved sewing. We used to joke all the time about applying for the show together,
07:27thinking that we might make it on as a father-daughter duo. And since he passed away last year, I really wanted to do it in his honour.
07:36You're actually wearing what you're about to make. Couldn't really have worked out better, could it?
07:40I have made one with a peplum as well. I probably shouldn't say this.
07:43Just do start doing some sewing in a minute.
07:46First, the sewers must quickly create the bodice.
07:50Right sides together, pin and stitch, side seams together.
07:53I think it's trying to get the balance between getting it done and being accurate.
07:59Done.
08:00And while most have the main body together in no time...
08:03That's the front. And the back.
08:05Safi is still cutting out.
08:08Definitely need to speed up.
08:10Product design lecturer Safi shares a North London studio with her partner Fred.
08:15And sewing isn't her only creative talent.
08:19I do quite a lot of knitting, screen printing, I like to bake, I like to make kombucha.
08:24Doing creative things is just really fulfilling. It suits my soul.
08:29Very nice.
08:30I like the colours, they're really bold.
08:32Yeah.
08:33Tigers.
08:35Time-wise, you are aware that the clock is ticking.
08:39It's a light fabric which is hard to work with, but I'm getting there.
08:42If I could give you any advice, it would be try and get there a little faster.
08:48Ladies and gentlemen, please welcome to the stage for the first time this series.
08:52It's the halfway time call.
08:56You are halfway through.
08:59So I'm going to gather up my peplum now.
09:02A peplum is a strip of fabric that sits at your natural waist.
09:06It can sometimes give women just a nice shape to their figure.
09:09This is a lot of fabric.
09:11There's tons of it.
09:12Peter works in construction and lives in Devon with his wife and three children.
09:17Snacks, but not for the dog.
09:19Who he's teaching to sew with his granny's vintage singer.
09:23It's quite nice to think that once she was sat here sewing away with this equipment,
09:28and now I am, and now my daughters are.
09:30Ever done a peplum?
09:31No.
09:32Know what a peplum is?
09:33It's just fabric.
09:34Yeah, it's just fabric.
09:35It's all just fabric.
09:36It's all just fabric.
09:37And you just bung it on the bottom.
09:38Heard it here first.
09:39Peplum bung it on the bottom.
09:40Peplum bung it on the bottom.
09:41All this is going to fit into this tiny little waist.
09:46For a perfectly gathered peplum, the sewers should make two rows of evenly spaced long stitches along the top edge.
09:53Ooh, gone a bit off-paced.
09:56Making sure they leave a strand of thread loose at the end.
09:59And then you can pull on threads and it gathers everything up.
10:02Kind of works a bit like magic.
10:04If you've got a metre width, you do two metres of fabric.
10:07And that gives a beautiful gathering.
10:09I really don't like centimetres.
10:11I work in inches all the time.
10:15A retiree from rural Wales, Gaynor has been sewing since the 1950s.
10:20I would say I'm a traditional sewer.
10:24I sew mainly for myself.
10:26My husband and I like to go on cruises and I really like making dressy dresses for those.
10:32And I do sew for the grandchildren.
10:34They've only got to ask and they'll get whatever they've asked for.
10:38So, what's the strangest thing you've had to make?
10:40That was for my son when he was the crocodile.
10:42In Peter Pan?
10:43And I think because I sew, I think that's why my kids got some of the parts.
10:48Yeah, they're not very talented, yeah.
10:51Oh, no, they're all brilliant.
10:52They're all brilliant, yes.
10:53They're watching it going, oh, the costume's good.
10:58I'm pulling up the gathers.
11:00The judges mentioned several times that the gathers should be nice and even.
11:04I'm figuring the gathers are really important.
11:07I'm pulling through gently.
11:09Pull too hard, the thread could break and the sewers will have to start over.
11:14Oh, I see it snapped.
11:16OK, I'm going to have to do that again.
11:18I love gathering.
11:19I gather a lot of my stuff, so this is heaven for me.
11:23For South East Londoner Jess, sewing is a family affair.
11:27My mum was originally taught by her mum and she used to sew a lot with her sisters.
11:32And my sister as well also shows.
11:34We love to show the things that we've made.
11:36It's something that really connects us and a really positive thing for us to enjoy together.
11:39So we could have done a whole series just with your family?
11:41Maybe next series we should just do that and I'll play you.
11:43I'll do your bit.
11:44I don't know how I got re-cut.
11:47I'm just attaching the peplum to the bodice.
11:52Patrick and Esme are expecting perfectly attached peplums with all of the stitching hidden from view.
11:59It's like trying to see backwards because everything's sewn inside out.
12:03It's quite difficult to do.
12:05To be honest with you, I've never really sewn together.
12:0724-year-old Kit only started sewing properly a year ago, but now there's no stopping him.
12:13He makes at least one garment a week.
12:15What I get out of sewing is a sense of accomplishment.
12:19I've been really enjoying going out wearing something that I've made that's completely unique
12:24and just people being like, that's so cool.
12:26So you're a singer as well?
12:28Yeah, I sing in a choir.
12:30Yes.
12:31You might hear me humming a tune.
12:32That would be lovely.
12:33What song would you sew to?
12:34I'd like to take that.
12:35You.
12:36Yeah.
12:37You're such a big star to me.
12:38Everything you want to be.
12:40But you're stuck in a hole.
12:43It's got the peplum bit on there, so I'm just going to pull all these bits out now.
12:50This fabric's just like, it's just so slippery.
12:53It's so pretty.
12:54I'm sad about the gathers.
12:56They could be more perfect, but it's life.
13:00My theme is very, very wonky.
13:03It could be better.
13:04You can see the bottom thread.
13:07Hello, Kaz.
13:08Lovely pattern you've picked.
13:09Yeah, I really like this, actually.
13:11Yeah? Yeah.
13:12Do you sew for yourself very often?
13:13I, no.
13:14No.
13:15I sew for other people all the time.
13:16Literally, I think of a stranger who walked down the street and said,
13:19can you sew me something I might do?
13:21Yeah.
13:2259-year-old Kaz's sewing addiction began in her teens.
13:26I started sewing in the 80s, when fashion was big and wild.
13:31And I stopped about 27, started sewing again, 57-ish.
13:37And I now make clothes for all my family and my friends.
13:40I just love it.
13:41My daughter gets a lot.
13:42She's like, well, why haven't you made it yet?
13:45I'm beginning to think you need me to intervene.
13:48But not today, because Patrick and Esme need that finished.
13:50OK. All right.
13:54Oh, shall we do this?
13:56You have half an hour left.
13:58MG.
14:00Lovely working with you again.
14:02Right.
14:03Sleeves.
14:04We need two of those.
14:05So, more gathering.
14:06My favourite thing.
14:08I'm inserting the sleeves by pulling up the gathers
14:11to try and get them to fit properly.
14:13That's a lot of gathering.
14:15It just creates a lovely puffy effect.
14:18While most of the sewers are getting their sleeves all sewn up.
14:22What do you think?
14:23Safies are nowhere to be seen.
14:25I've decided I want to come back to the sleeves.
14:28So, I'd rather finish the rest of the garment
14:30and have something you can wear with those sleeves.
14:33Right.
14:34On to the next bit.
14:35Ribbony McRibbon.
14:36Next, the sewers must sandwich their ribbon ties in place,
14:39making sure they're even.
14:41This is, like, the focal point.
14:43You really want it to look great.
14:45Oh, God, that's gone in the wrong place.
14:48Righty-ho.
14:49I didn't catch the ribbons and I wasn't paying attention.
14:52There's only one on this side.
14:54I've chosen a velvety.
14:55Just why not?
14:56Why wouldn't you?
14:57I'm really happy with how it's turned out.
15:00A little bit unhappy with the colour match of the ribbon.
15:02I think it sounds out too much.
15:04We've got ten minutes left, everybody!
15:08Ah!
15:09Oh, God.
15:10I wish I should've shot in that.
15:11I've got quite a few bits to do.
15:13I've just got the hem to do.
15:16This is a no-pin job.
15:17Wee-ho.
15:19Last, last bit, Jess.
15:20Come on.
15:21Warm stretch.
15:23This leaf's gonna look so bodged.
15:25Oh, my God.
15:26Oh, gosh.
15:27I really don't want this to happen for you.
15:29Touch it!
15:30Don't let go!
15:32There we go.
15:33Done.
15:34I've just got to press it a little bit.
15:38I'll just stand there like that.
15:40Crap!
15:42Something happened to my eye and it's too hot.
15:44So it's just burnt a hole in my thing.
15:49I can zigzag over it to keep it secure.
15:51OK.
15:52One minute left, everyone!
15:54Oh, my gosh.
15:55Get those mannequins dressed.
15:57Jesus.
16:02I've only got one sleeve.
16:03What a drama.
16:09It's probably as good as we're gonna get it.
16:11Needles up, sewers!
16:13Oh, I can't believe I didn't finish it.
16:15Time for a bit of bow and tell.
16:17When you're moving right up close to me.
16:24Twelve tie-front blouses are ready to be scrutinised in this year's first judging.
16:29Pretty fantastic.
16:30As much as I can gather from here.
16:33Oh.
16:35Black bone.
16:37I got the shakes down the knee bone.
16:39I think this is absolutely first rate.
16:40The peplum and the sleeves have got a bit of bounce.
16:41Love the print.
16:42The choice of the blue satin ribbon really works.
16:54And the gathering is pretty good.
16:56I think it's great.
16:57It looks absolutely spot on.
17:02The gathers over the shoulder are lovely.
17:05And the quality of the gathers on the peplum are also really even.
17:10There's a really nice amount of bounce.
17:12You should be extremely pleased with it.
17:16If I've anything to say about the fabric choice, it's just very, very drapey.
17:20So you're not getting quite the bounce from the gathering.
17:23But the gathering is very, very neat indeed.
17:30The whole thing looks sunshiny and jolly.
17:34And it has bounced, which is what we wanted.
17:37You've done a good job.
17:42I really like the fabric.
17:44I knew you would.
17:45I did it for you.
17:46Oh, you mean because it's got a bow.
17:48Because the bows, yes, of course.
17:49It is a shame we can still see the gathering stitch.
17:57This fabric isn't great.
17:59It's very hard to see the gathering.
18:02And the ribbons aren't being put in in the same place.
18:05The gathering stitch is a little bit low.
18:12So you've gathered it a little bit away from where it's sitting in the seam.
18:21I can see a little bit the gathering stitch here and here.
18:26The ribbon is maybe a little bit punchy.
18:32The choice of the velvet ribbon, I really, really like.
18:35Because with all of these gathers, you've got dark and light.
18:38And with the ribbon, you've got dark and light.
18:41It's just a really, really nice little detail.
18:43But they've got a little bit of tuck here.
18:53Oh, you've burnt it.
18:55The iron was too hot and it burnt a little hole in my polyester.
18:59You must have been really kicking yourself.
19:01C'est la vie, eh?
19:11Yeah.
19:12It's difficult to know where to start on this one.
19:14Yeah.
19:15It's a big shame that you didn't get the sleeves in.
19:18You're a very long way from finishing.
19:20You're really, really going to have to speed up.
19:23Yeah.
19:31This looks spot on.
19:32I think it is a really nice choice of fabric.
19:35The choice of ribbon.
19:36The colours all work really nicely.
19:38The gathering is very neat.
19:41You've done a good job.
19:43Patrick and Esme will now rank the tie blouses from worst to first.
19:49In 12th place, Saffy.
19:52You didn't finish.
19:53In 11th place, it's Jess.
19:57Unfortunately, a big burn right in the front.
20:00Novello is 10th.
20:02Peter, 9th.
20:03Yasmin, 8th.
20:04Stuart, 7th.
20:05And Anne is 6th.
20:07In 5th place is Orla.
20:09Glendora is 4th.
20:10And Gayna, 3rd.
20:12In 2nd place...
20:17Kaz.
20:19We loved the fabric and you made it really well.
20:23Which means in 1st place, it's Kit.
20:26Woo!
20:27There isn't a fault anywhere.
20:29And the choice of fabric, the choice of bow, everything, it looks fantastic.
20:33Great.
20:35So come on.
20:36So come on.
20:37We're getting on.
20:38I don't know what you're waiting for.
20:39The time is coming.
20:40I cannot remember what Patrick said.
20:41Because he just said, can't fold it, whatever else it was.
20:42I was like, that's fine for me.
20:43I can leave now.
20:44Always a little disappointing, but I'll test the temperature of an iron going forward,
20:48won't I?
20:49I just really lost track of time with the fabric and it's all started to roll into chaos.
20:53It hasn't deterred me.
20:54I can push it to the side and get on with the next thing.
20:58It's time now for the transformation.
20:59This is one where we take something old and unwanted and turn it into something lovely.
21:03Patrick, what are we asking them to transform today.
21:06To round out the sort of feeling in theries,
21:10be the idea, be the idea.
21:11I just got.
21:12I really lost track of time with the fabric and it's all started to roll into chaos.
21:17It hasn't deterred me.
21:18I can push it to the side and get on with the next thing.
21:23It's time now for the transformation.
21:24This is one where we take something old and unwanted and turn it into something lovely.
21:28Patrick, what are we asking them to transform today?
21:32Out your first day in the sewing room. We're giving you each a circle skirt
21:38Now we'd like you to completely transform these skirts into a wearable and distinctive garment
21:44You can only take one circle skirt
21:47You can take fastenings from the haberdashery, but you can't use any other trim and you can't use any other fabric
21:55Now the judges aren't allowed to be here for this challenge. So watch them transform into people on their lunch break
22:02See you in a bit guys. Bye
22:05You have 90 minutes
22:07And your time starts now
22:22I'm doing
22:23But I'm excited so with the time I'm gonna try and keep an eye on the fuck a bit more
22:26I'm not somebody that thinks on their feet. It's all about the creativity
22:31Creativity I believe in myself. I really do
22:37Right Esme what are you hoping to see from this challenge?
22:40I'd like to see them using the whole of the circle skirt
22:44There's a whopping great amount of material in one skirt make a little Esme size tent out of that
22:50This week is all about making shape so what we don't want to see is a load of skirts
22:54There's all sorts of things they could do this is our first time to see their sort of raw creativity isn't it?
23:00Yes, I'm looking forward to seeing it
23:01So Esme what are you hoping to see from this challenge you've said that before I'm just going round and round in circles
23:08It will be a top the fabrics gonna come out here and so I can tie them together and form a big bow
23:17It's gonna be like a sculptural top think like a chocolate truffle wrapper
23:22I'm going to turn it into a blue zonny jacket so these arms get rid of this zip
23:27Put a bigger zip in I'm using my one good idea in this first week. You come all the way to Leeds with one idea
23:35From Herefordshire Stuart enjoys making and mending clothes for his family
23:42And his restoration skills don't stop with fabric I like fiddling with watches
23:47It's quite precise like my sewing style it fits well with the way that my brain works
23:52So this is your best idea. What is it?
23:54It's a
23:56Drapey drapey snippy snip tie tie over the top
23:59Do you think that's what Vivian Westwood used to call her stuff foldy foldy zip zip
24:04I am thinking going out top with gathered
24:11Ties on it. I do like like a print. It's a classic
24:14My initial idea is some type of like halter neck top and I'm gonna see where I go from there and maybe some gathers
24:21It'll be a nice little summer top with a frill around the top
24:26Young at heart Nana to nine grandkids
24:29When Novello isn't getting crafty at home in Chelsea
24:32I think these ones would go perfect with your outfit today. She loves to travel
24:38I often take my sewing machine on holiday with me. I love sewing machines
24:43My parents bought me a proper grown-up electric sewing machine for my seventh birthday and
24:48I've been sewing ever since oh, you're a child prodigy
24:52Don't go that far
24:54You were a child prodigy
24:55You were like Mozart
24:57Making clothes on a big sewing machine
24:59Yeah, that's incredible
25:01I thought I will at least rent the Scottish list in the first episode and I'm making a top
25:05It's very gathered sleeves like three tiers of it
25:09I am just afraid that I'm gonna spend so long gathering
25:12I'm not gonna spend time like making a body part
25:14While most of the sellers are turning their skirts into tops a few are trying to make their mark with something more ambitious
25:22I'm hoping to transform this black
25:25Circle skirt into a hot dress. I'm gonna go top and bottoms maybe a little cheeky skirt
25:31I'm currently making a pair of kind of culottes shorts which are then hopefully put some little shoulder straps on
25:38Glendora yeah, I want to cut some info space into interface my fly short shorts
25:46Yeah ambitious that is part of my personality. Yeah
25:50Glendora isn't just driven. She's also a driver a bus driver from Luton and when she's not behind the wheel
25:57She's at her sewing machine
25:59My sewing style is classic. I'm not wacky and strained
26:05Yeah, that's probably me personally
26:08My clothes
26:10My clothes tend to be quite classic lines if I wouldn't wear it
26:15It's not worth me making it you might need to loosen those rules with the transformation
26:19You're halfway through Wow are we
26:26Tough guy halfway through and I've only done what a bit of a sleeve. This is horrible. This is a nice wave on the skirt
26:33This is a very very unique garment designed. Yeah, I've never seen anything like
26:38I'm currently adding very thick interfacing to the collar to make it stand a bit more
26:56What is that? It's going to be a giant bow. Esme is gonna paint with pleasure
27:01I am hoping to have a tie front to this top, but there's a little bit of freewheeling about I have decided on this
27:09outrageously pink zit
27:11You've got 15 minutes left. Oh my goodness. Yeah
27:18Right you'll come in with me
27:20I
27:24Wanted to do two rows drawstrings. That's not gonna happen. I've measured the waist but not the hips
27:29That's way too small. They might be very short shorts. Yes. I'm hoping to pull the stitches to gather it
27:34So then I can try and make some type of peplums for the front of the top
27:39I hate gathering so much. I used to love it. And now I hate scholars. So in my twist twist
27:44Here's my red thread. It's a little bit of detail isn't it that perhaps will
27:49Lift its status a little
27:52Happy with the shape, but that's way too blue zone. So give me sorry. I've created a whole new shape
27:56It's just whether Patrick and there's me like or not. You've got five minutes left everybody
28:01That's what we like to see running. It's a little bit snug. Oh, come on
28:06I'm now attaching my horrific sleeve to my horrific bodice. I've got one sleeve on there. It's got a bit more shape to it
28:13Sexy see
28:17Do you know how much time's left is it literally like two minutes one minute left everyone?
28:22Okay, let's go. I've never ever ever ever had to say this quickly
28:26Come on, this is shoddy. I hope it's long enough. I haven't even checked if it covers her boobies. Just
28:35Needles up, sewers! That is the end of your time
28:40It's fine. It's just it could be better. Please bring your mannequins forward and muddle them up
28:45So we don't know who's is who's like food in the office refrigerator
28:48Well circle stir transformations turned around in just 90 minutes
29:05Unfortunately those Glendora feels unwell so won't be attending the judging
29:08Well, not a circle skirt anywhere to be seen soon
29:20Do you think it's phone the great big?
29:23Stiffened faux bow because it's in two halves. I like the fabric
29:29I think it's really bold a million miles away from a circle skirt, and it looks great. Yeah
29:33To do two full pieces I think is great, and it's a very different skirt to the original circle skirt
29:43It's got a bit of crin in the bottom hem to give it this great wavy shape
29:49And look
29:52Matchy-matchy
29:57I mean it's obviously quite a playful garment and it's quite a playful fabric
30:00But that don't know someone's bottom could be tricky. Yeah
30:07Quite a lot of construction has gotten into this it's standing a bit proud at the front
30:13Yes, the crutch looks too short at the back, but I admire the bravery in this. I agree
30:22I think the fit of it looks pretty good actually, and I like how we've got the red here
30:30This blue satin looks very chic one side. It's longer than the other
30:37I think it's really fun. Maybe the underneath needed to be a bit less baggy
30:44I do very much like this twist because of the pattern yeah
30:50You lose some of the effect of all that kind of clever engineering at the front
30:54It reminds me of one of those sweets you get that's wrapped up and then it's got that brilliant wrapper sort of springing up
31:03You've got tons of interfacing
31:06That's giving it all this amazing shape, but I think the arm holds a bit low. Yeah
31:11We have a very dramatic
31:18Zip front top with these extraordinary kind of batwing sleeves
31:24I actually really like the bold pink zip me the front. I think it's a really nice choice. I think it's great
31:30The whole idea of the top works really well with the fabric, but look what's going to happen
31:41Exactly
31:44I love these sleeves because of the tartan it just works really really well
31:49It's just a shame they've run out of time on that final layer
31:53Patrick and Esme will now rank the transformations from bottom to top
31:5812th place is
32:01The leopard that's Jess
32:04Just we really liked it
32:06The only thing was it was just really gapy at the front in 11th place is
32:12the tartan that's all that
32:16Unfortunately
32:17You didn't finish that sleeve
32:19Safi is in 10th place
32:21Glendora 9th Stuart 8th and peter 7th
32:24Gaynor comes sixth novello fifth dan fourth and in third place is kit
32:30in
32:30second place is
32:33The lilac top with the giant bow that's yasmin well done
32:39Fantastic transformation. We loved it. I think you probably know who's in first place. That's kaz
32:45I love a back wing sleeve very well done
32:56I can't believe it because this was the thing that I was dreading
33:00I cried you could still cry
33:04That was well-deserved
33:05I definitely I'm in a dangerous zone
33:07I'm gonna have to basically pull off perfection to stand the chance of staying I think
33:13Disappointed with 12 going into the made to measure
33:16I obviously know that I'm coming at it from behind position
33:18I'm just gonna have to give it the best shot, right?
33:34Oh, we're your people
33:36There's just one final challenge for the sewers to shape up
33:38I'm 11 and 12 so i'm just a bit like
33:43Boom and avoid shipping out
33:45I'm doing the bigger go home type thing so it's hopefully gonna fit you
33:50Welcome back sewers
33:52Unfortunately glendora is still unwell and won't be joining us today
33:55But we wish her better and hopefully she'll be back with us soon
33:58Today's challenge is the made to measure
34:01This is the big one the one where we ask you to fit something to a real life person
34:07The judges have asked you to make a dress involving pleats
34:11You can use any kind of pleating technique you like as long as it's used to give your dress shape
34:17You have five hours for this challenge and your time starts now
34:22Stand up lovely
34:24The sewers have had a chance to practice their dresses
34:27It's up close and personal there isn't it
34:29But this is the first time they're meeting the models they're fitting to
34:33I think that's good
34:34I haven't made dresses for a long time certainly not ones that's properly fitted
34:38I've never fitted to a model before the closest i've ever come is i i do a lot of fancy dress for friends
34:45So this one is pleat doherty
34:48This is a pleat waterman and here you go pleater andre
34:54I've run out of pleats tell me why you chose this challenge with pleats you can make shape
34:59Look
35:02There she is
35:03There are lots of types of pleats knife pleats box pleats inverted box pleats
35:09So there's lots that they can play with
35:10And what are you hoping to see how might they stand out
35:13Well literally by standing out
35:15Yes
35:16You know we're expecting these pleats to create a really interesting shape that looks beautiful and flattering
35:22And structural i'm very intrigued to see how and where they use them so you want to be surprised by something
35:28Yeah definitely well usually we hope they don't fold under pressure but today i hope they do
35:34Okay this is it
35:40Trying to work super fast i really hope i can finish it in time because i really need this win
35:45I have to smash it otherwise i'm going home so i'm going to deploy my verse
35:49Good morning good morning tell us about the dress you're going to make so that iconic david bowie lightning bolt on the face
35:58Okay in dress form all right
36:01Kit's crafting his lightning bolt from a front panel featuring a single pointed pleat a blue satin body and an asymmetric hem
36:09This here is the front piece okay okay the pleat starts here and it's going to be folded over here
36:16You've drafted this yourself have you
36:19Never really drafted a dress before so that's fun
36:22How short is it going to be
36:23It will go up to probably about half a foot below the hip
36:27So it's not going to show the crotch
36:29No there's going to be no indecency this evening
36:32Let's hope not
36:33While kit is keeping things pg yasmin's dress might be x-rated
36:38It is going to be as short as the model is comfortable wearing
36:43It's inspired by vivian westward i've always loved her affinity to the queer community and the punk element of her designs
36:50Channeling the fashion icon yasmin's tartan dress will have a pleated bust panel and a mini skirt with knife pleat side panels
36:58So it will be short a bit cheeky
37:00It's the plan your model is down the catwalk crying
37:04So ashamed no it'll be fine
37:07But there's nothing risque about gainers dress i'm not flamboyant it's not a very fancy dress it's a day dress
37:15Playing it safe gainers day dress will have horizontal pleats under the bus line and on the sleeves as well as two central box pleats
37:23So a relatively simple silhouette yes but i'm hoping to do a really good job of it
37:28You've got a sort of lightweight chambray is it going to hold its pleat well it does hold it quite well yeah
37:34And i've got a nice pressing cloth so i can get it quite hot and steamy
37:40Why did i think this should be a good idea
37:42Stuart is less hot and steamy more hot and bothered about his dress
37:47Right tell us what you're making hopefully that there's going to be lots of pleats around the top it goes all the way over shoulders and all the way around the back
37:54Oh, wow gosh, that is a lot nearly four meters down to
37:58About a meter
38:00Stuart's big pleated collar will crown a duchess satin a-line dress made with box pleats which is planning to fully line
38:08Oh, it's lined as well. Yes. Wow. Okay. Have you practiced it?
38:12I have in the time no
38:18And stuart isn't the only sewer making a classic a-line dress
38:22I did find out that stuart and cas are using the same pattern
38:27Oh, no
38:29Huh?
38:29I said oh, no, but i meant to say it in my head
38:32It just came out
38:34Okay, we've actually done quite different interpretations which i think is really interesting and fun
38:37Yeah, so i'm kind of going for a 1960s baby doll vibe lime green made to be seen absolutely
38:45jess's zesty baby doll dress also has box pleats
38:48But she's hoping to stay in and stand out from the competition with a stand collar and pearl trim
38:54I think your green looks amazing. Thank you. It's my favorite color absolutely stunning
39:01It's not color that's inspired kaz but fabric
39:05I'm doing denim. I love denim. They're gonna look very different. I'm just making an everyday dress
39:14Kaz's denim dress also has a stand collar and box pleats, but she's contrast top stitching her bodice and adding a deep hem
39:22Hello kaz. Hi sarah, how are you doing?
39:24I'm really well, how are you?
39:26Do you know what? I'm all right. Buzz in after a win. Congratulations on your win
39:31Okay, we're moving on now. Thank you. It's all about the pleats. You're making a denim denim pleated dress
39:38And is denim good for pleats?
39:39The fabric the sewers have chosen will be crucial to creating the standout shape patrick and esme are after
39:50I am making my dress. I have duchess satin thick and it holds structure really well
39:56For my pleated pieces it's a straight cotton obviously if I just fold this on its own
40:02It's not going to have much structure. So this is all reinforced with some interfacing
40:06I'm using raw silk, which I've had for many many many years
40:10um, I got it originally because I was making my
40:13daughter kelsey's wedding dress
40:15It must have been 17 years ago now
40:17And I didn't end up using it. So i'm using it now
40:21Novello is transforming her vintage raw silk into a self-drafted halter neck dress with an oversized bow and full-length skirt
40:29made from seven tube shaped pleats
40:32I'm attaching horse hair braid so that I can form the pleats. Okay. It's very ambitious. I think it could look stunning. I hope it does
40:41Yeah
40:43Safi's also gone for an ambitious design in a last stitch effort to save herself
40:50I've custom printed a fabric. It should be like really dramatic
40:54Yeah, with this brief, I just really wanted to not get it wrong. So they asked for pleats
40:57So I'm giving them a whole load of pleats
41:00She's going all out with 10 inverted box pleats which should flare out and show off her custom printed fabric
41:07If she can get it finished
41:10This is very time consuming and it seems that me and speed don't go very well together
41:15You're halfway through everybody
41:18That's not good. I need to go full speed ahead pleating requires precision
41:23So now that's that a lot of pressing this is very tiny iron would be really useful and even more patience
41:32I've only got four meters of this to do so
41:35Now I need to do this
41:37And for some sewers pleating is a proper conundrum
41:41Oh my dears
41:42I've created my own pattern
41:44There's two types of pleating. They're very strange and structural
41:48All right, let's see then this goes here
41:50It's like a massive long origami session
41:53I work in the construction industry
41:55So quite like the thought of actually creating something 3d and architectural
41:59Peter has engineered two gold shoulder pieces to embellish a classic little black dress
42:04Which will have a gold pleated belt to match that feels very pop starry. Yeah, it's a sort of catwalk II look
42:11I couldn't wear it to sainsbury's. It's not really no
42:14Unless you were very glamorous and like an older lady does she have a name gainer weirdly
42:21It's really helpful to have a muse yeah, yeah, she's our muse then yeah
42:28Dan's muse is closer to home
42:30My sister is a christmas fiend. It's more about the wrapping than the present. Yeah
42:35And this year she gave me something I can't even know what it was
42:37But the bow was like a pleated
42:41It was it was incredible and as soon as I'd heard that it was a dress with pleats
42:45Thought that's it. I'm going to try I'm going to try and recreate this in fabric. Did she show you how to do it?
42:50She couldn't remember
42:53Winging it dan's bow will be attached to the only pleated element in his little black dress a pleated waist panel
43:00It's not a pleated dress. It's a dress with pleats
43:04That's what I keep telling myself
43:07Dan might be doing the bare minimum
43:09It's not going to look like this. It's going to be folded, but it doesn't look cool at this point
43:12I really like it
43:13But ola is going the extra mile
43:16This is the most important part of my design
43:18It's based on my door in my childhood bedroom. There's kind of quite a weird optical illusion effect
43:25So now start sculpting it with my fingers
43:29This is a really big moment really scared. It's not going to work
43:32Basically, it's made from zigzag panels. It is coming together, and I think it has worked
43:38As well as her 3d pleat all as monochrome mini will feature sculptural pleated sleeves
43:45You've used your pleating in a very very unusual way normal pleats are kind of taking you just fold an iron and fold an iron
43:51I don't think you should make your decision sound like it was laziness though. Oh, no
43:55It's about originality. It's not about oh, it would take ages
44:03I've done your hair in pleats. Do you like it?
44:06You've got one hour left god, that's a bit nerve-cracking
44:17This is the bore we're not on course we're rushing now. I'm just pleating these sleeves
44:22Can I must you let's just get this done the pleats are done. I might actually finish
44:28I'm gonna add some more interfacing in there. It's not gonna structure these pleats are not pretty
44:34Apart from the fabric itself. Is there anything stiffening these pleats or that?
44:37No, I'm trying to use the models kind of natural shape and just enhance it
44:41And there's still a bit to go. Yes, it's going to be tight
44:45Just on my last pleats finally got there the fabrics really bad
44:51So I've just put the first line of top stitching in which also holds the pleats in place
44:57Then I'm just going to come along these seams and do the same thing all over again
45:02power shoulder
45:04Little shit
45:06You've got half an hour left. Oh my gosh. Oh
45:10With their pleats coming together
45:14So these will sort of be going out like that the sewers can only hope their dresses are shaping up as planned
45:21It's too tight across the boobs. That's my only problem. We'll stick a minute
45:25It's not sitting exactly how I'd want it to hopefully we'll flare out. Yeah, it's looking good. Yeah
45:32I'm really pleased with it. Yeah
45:33Seeing what everyone else is doing now my dress is
45:37quite straightforward
45:39Gaynor does seem to be getting on okay, but it's
45:43Relatively simple her design. Yes right now. I'm just hemming the sides of my dress. I think it's looking good
45:50Safi didn't finish the pattern, but she does seem to be getting on okay, and she's nearly finished actually
45:58Yeah, I'm very conscious of where I am and the rankings so I need to get this perfect
46:02And I need to leave a decent amount of time for finishings
46:05Jess is very conscious that she wants to go back and tidy up all the loose threads
46:10Okay, she has still got quite a bit to do
46:13Has anyone got the time?
46:14You've got 10 minutes left everyone
46:18That's so badly done if I don't get this lining on it'll be a waste of an hour so
46:23I think it needs to have pockets so i'm just quickly adding them in
46:27I put on an embroidery detail just to lift it a little bit
46:33But i'm doing the bow now i'm gonna have to change the plan the ball is not working
46:37It's coming into shape it's coming into shape
46:39There are a fair amount of creases just needs to be clean you know like a clean point
46:45The water just spurted out there's an iron hates me it wants me to fail
46:49How much time do you have left sorry one minute left oh my god
46:53Oh, joy get your models dressed
46:58Let me see i'll do you exactly how you do a hand
47:02There will help you half bottom hand it's a bit of a squeeze
47:11Needles up sewers you have finished your first made to measure now it's time for the catwalk and judging oh yeah
47:19No i'm going home i'm fully going home
47:3111 dresses with pleats made in just five hours
47:35I think this works fantastically well it's visually very arresting you can see all the motion the pleats are creating
47:54A really nice shape and i love the colors and you printed it didn't you yeah which is brilliant
48:00You put pockets in great you've done a really good job thank you really good
48:17All of this is fantastic i love it it's so graphic it's so bold there's so much engineering that's gone
48:24Into the different elements of it i think it's one of the hardest patterns i've ever seen it's completely mind-boggling thank you very much
48:40Right you were going to do a bow the construction of the ball wasn't it wasn't working out it's such a shame
48:48Yeah the shape is all on the dress rather than in the dress it does look a little bit sort of stuck on
49:02The pleated collar is really really effective it is creating this really lovely dramatic neckline
49:11I presume the very last thing you did was the hem yeah it's really wibbly wobbly from here up
49:20It's a one piece of that but down there it's c minus
49:25sorry
49:27let me tell you about the way she looked the way she acted the color of her hair
49:32her voice was soft and cool her eyes were clear and bright but she's not there
49:39when i saw it coming down the catwalk i could see the rippling and i think it's a bit too tight over
49:46the bust but your pleats are creating a good shape and i think the color of this dress is great zesty not
49:53bad thank you
50:07i love top stitching and i love deep em
50:12the pleats are not giving it lots of shape yeah and partly i think that's just the fabric
50:18isn't quite stiff enough it just doesn't have enough pleaty drama
50:35the quality of the pleating around these sort of half kilt sections is really really neat and precise
50:42it's clearly taking a very long time longer than it should have done because you know you haven't quite
50:47got it finished and these pleats aren't making that much of a shape
51:03right one thing i really like about this is the embroidery but you haven't got many pleats in it
51:10and it's not really making a shape it's a really elegant dress there's nothing to criticise about
51:17it apart from the shape bit
51:24i love where this came from david bowie and a difficult thing to make doing this one pleat
51:40it's brilliant but i just want it to be a perfect perfect pleat right through the front and it isn't
51:47quite it's just ever so slightly collapsing but we mustn't detract from the fact that this is an
51:53amazing looking garment that has been such a feat of engineering i think it's really fab well done
52:09all the impact all the drama is coming from your pleats so fantastically well done they're creating a
52:22really interesting and bold silhouette i think it's really imaginative i love these shoulders they
52:47have such impact and also the colors it's great quite a simple amount of pleating is doing so much
52:56to lift this garment there's quite sort of strong thierry mugler feeling about these shoulders it's
53:02really dramatic and really powerful their pleats running in all sorts of different directions
53:08quite highly engineered and the finish on the dress is really nice it's it's a cracker
53:17just seeing it going down the catwalk it was amazing i've never been to a catwalk show
53:21of this is a far far cry from a building site so just yeah brilliant i cannot believe i got such
53:27good comments like i'm just really happy i'm worried that i might go home but i i really put my all into
53:32that final challenge so we'll just have to wait and see a little disappointed in myself i suppose and i
53:38wish i pushed the bolt out i came into the made to measure right at the bottom and everybody produced
53:44something so beautiful i want to be here next week if i am fantastic and if i'm not i will leave my head
53:51held high so week one have they hit the ground running yeah i think we've had a fantastic first week
54:00we've seen some amazing pattern challenges all bar one were fantastically done safi didn't finish her
54:07pattern challenge but then has done a really good made to measure and actually we've seen some
54:13stunning made to measures i agree everyone did great on the transformation it was really difficult to
54:20choose who was up and who was down so is it quite an even pack they are all very much on a level playing
54:26field i would say and of course we have to take into consideration glendora having not taken part yes in
54:34the made to measure today it's going to be really difficult
54:40it is the end of your first week in the sewing room everyone has given it their all but there can
54:46only be one garment of the week over to you patrick our garment of the week this week is
54:53absolutely stunning i mean there were some brilliant brilliant yes made to measures this
55:12week but this one really stood out well done thank you very much
55:16we've reached the time where we have to say goodbye to one of our servers and the person going home
55:24this week is it was such a close run thing we just thought we'd love to see you all again next week
55:43yep but that does however mean that two people will be going home next week but for now congratulations
55:50i think we've had a phenomenal first week we've got a fantastic group of servers and
55:59with glendora not taking part in the challenge today it just felt like the fair thing to do to send
56:04nobody home they expressed who they are which for me is very very important nobody
56:11that is for all the tension just run out of my body i am absolutely a full abogastard i was
56:19literally waiting for them to say jessica and i was preparing myself so that when they said it i
56:24wouldn't cry and the only thing i hadn't prepared myself for is for them not saying jessica and so um
56:29then the tears came a bit embarrassing but i'll get it together for next time
56:32i can't believe that happened the engineering degree certainly paid off i'm sure that's what
56:43my parents had in mind when i went off to go and study uh one day you know you might you know design
56:48buildings and bridges no i've designed a dress uh but no this is all just a bit surreal yeah i'm
56:53still slightly pinching myself that that actually just happened next time the sewers work up a sweat
57:00creating activewear i've never sewn this fast in my life the pattern challenge demands they get
57:05their thinking caps on why are you laughing the transformation sees them recycle ready to party
57:11don't like sexy this is not the place to be and the made to measure is all about athleisure
57:16give yourself a massive pat on the back i've done it who will grab the gold that is cool isn't it
57:21and who will fall at the final hurdle that is nuts i can't believe i did that
57:25that's all from taylors to traitors the knives are out in new zealand better watch your back on bbc
57:34i play on sounds dating dilemmas and heart to heart in situationships with sophie and christine
57:55do
57:56梅
57:57so
58:02as
58:08so
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