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Hay's Way: Katharine visits the Calanais Stones on the Isle of Lewis
The Scotsman
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04/10/2024
Katharine visits the Calanais Standing Stones on the Isle of Lewis, another popular spot for visitors, but one that is struggling under the pressure of tourism to the island
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Travel
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00:00
Hello, so I've made it to Callowish Stones on the Isle of Lewis. It's one of the most
00:24
popular sites that people come and visit when they're visiting the Outer Hebrides. So behind
00:29
me you can see the Standing Stones. They date back, well, about 5,000 years and back to the
00:36
Neolithic period and they actually also predate England's Stonehenge. But I mainly came here to
00:44
talk about tourism and just how the site is keeping up in the face of more and more visitors
00:51
coming to the island. And just walking around it's quite clear you can see where there's
00:56
signs of erosion, where there's been a lot of people walking around the stones.
01:00
And I was just talking to a local archaeologist who was saying that they are very concerned
01:07
about the wear and tear on the site and apparently there are talks of maybe having to close it off
01:13
just to allow some of the land to sort of regenerate and get back into a stronger position
01:17
to accommodate all these people coming to visit. Interestingly, they also told me that they used
01:23
to have heather around the stones which would have been more robust but that was removed to
01:30
make way for kind of a grassy plain to make it more accessible for people to walk up to the
01:34
stones and visit them. But it looks like that's, yeah, there's been an unintended consequence
01:40
perhaps with the land around the stones just not looking very stable. As I said, just walking
01:47
through I can see where the grass has kind of worn away quite a bit and it's muddy. So yeah,
01:54
I can understand why people are a bit concerned and want to perhaps talk about closing it off
01:58
for a period of time just to allow the land to regenerate. There's also a bit of a worry that
02:05
there's a new visitor centre being developed which means that the current one is closed.
02:10
It also means that one of the two entrances to the site will be shut over next year whilst the
02:15
building work is taking place and locals were telling me they're a bit concerned about the
02:20
congestion that will happen at the entrance that remains open because it's already heavily
02:27
congested in the summer when a lot of people come. So limiting people to just one entrance is going
02:32
to cause problems they said. So yeah, it's just interesting to come here and I've just been
02:38
walking through the Highlands over August and September where there are similar concerns about
02:43
local infrastructure and whether it's capable of supporting tourists to these more rural areas.
02:52
On the Isle of Lewis specifically, the port at Stornoway has been developed so
02:56
it's going to be able to accommodate larger cruise ships coming in which means more visitors.
03:02
And a few people I've spoken to said yes, one option is to kind of improve the infrastructure,
03:07
for example build bigger roads to accommodate these buses and camper vans. But there are also
03:12
people who say that's not what they want to happen. Mitigating the effects of tourism
03:19
needs to come from the source rather than the island having to respond and develop
03:25
which would end up changing quite a lot of why people like to come here.
03:31
That being the single track roads, the less developed areas, it's something that
03:38
gives the island its charm and makes it distinct from other places in the UK and around the world.
03:44
So yeah, I'm going to be staying on the island a little bit longer for a few more days and then
03:48
I'll head down to Harris and hopefully visit Uist as well just to carry on documenting and hearing
03:55
the important conversations that are going on in these island communities. As always you can
04:01
find my stories on the Scotsman website under a section called Hay's Way and I also have an
04:06
Instagram page where I add pictures and anecdotes of my trip which I've been doing for the last
04:12
seven months now which you can find by searching at rural underscore cat with a k.
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