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Panayam kay DOST-PTRI Director Dr. Julies Leano Jr. ukol sa Philippine Handloom Weaving Center at Textile Revitalized project

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00:00Philippine Handloom Weaving Center at Textile Revitalized Project.
00:04Ating tatalakayin kasama si Dr. Julius Lianyo Jr.,
00:08ang Director ng Philippine Textile and Research Institute
00:12ng Department of Science and Technology.
00:14Dr. Lianyo, magandang tanghali po.
00:16Magandang tanghali po.
00:17Magandang tanghali po. I like yung textiles na suot kaagad ni Dr. Lianyo.
00:20Thank you very much.
00:22Ibinibida na ni Sir.
00:23Sir, kamakailan po ay inilunsad ang Philippine Handloom Weaving Center sa Taguig.
00:28Ano po yung layunin nito at bakit ito mahalaga para sa industriya ng pag-ahabi sa Pilipinas?
00:34Well, last week po nilaunch nga yung Philippine Handloom Weaving Innovate Center sa Taguig.
00:39And this is technically to put together our handloom weaving activities in the Philippines.
00:44So, tumang-tumang, nag-cancel ng pasok.
00:47So, malamang na lahat ng ating mga mga-ahabi nasa kanilang mga bahay ngayon.
00:50So, we wanted them to be connected. We wanted them to be looped.
00:53And itong center na po ito is actually a belated reaction kasi dumadami yung ating Handloom Weaving Centers across the Philippines.
00:59And we need a central command.
01:01And that exactly is the Handloom Weaving Center based in the headquarters of the Philippine Textile Research Institute.
01:07Dr. Lianyo, paano po pinagsama ang siyensya at sining sa pagpapalago ng industriya ng pag-ahabi sa pamamagitan ng center na ito, the art and the science?
01:17The art and the science, yes. Marami pong science na pumapasok dyan actually.
01:21Yung sinulid na ginagamit natin o yung fiber na ginagamit, yung kulay na ginagamit natin, yung loom, yung makina na ginagamit.
01:30These are all products of science and engineering.
01:32And gusto natin, hindi naman tayo mahuli.
01:34So, the productivity races, for example, the width of the looms, medyo mas maaba.
01:39So, all of these are part of our efforts to infuse science and technology in this age-old, you know, traditional crafts.
01:46Mm-hmm. Nabanggit niyo yung sinulid, nabanggit niyo yung loom.
01:49So, ano pa po yung mga ibang tampok ng weaving center na pwede pong magamit ng ating local weavers?
01:56At ano po yung mga bagong teknolohiya at inovasyon sa pag-ahabi na ituturo o gagamitin sa center?
02:03O number one po yung training.
02:05So, that center is actually part of the textile academy.
02:08Doon po tayo nagtitrain.
02:09By the way, we just had certified 23 new handloom weavers doon sa NC2 ng ating TESDA.
02:16That's for upright handloom weaving.
02:18And then, meron tayong design and development para hindi naman paulit-ulit.
02:22Baka may bago naman, may bagong kulay, may bagong disenyo, bagong style.
02:25And then, we also have yung engineering component.
02:28Ito yung instead po na magpagawa ka ng, you know, the parts of the loom, kunwari sa Sambuanga.
02:32Pwede isend na lang namin yung digital file doon and itit-3D print nila doon yung mga parts.
02:38It already is Sambuanga.
02:39So, you don't have to like do it here in Manila.
02:41And then, the more sophisticated part, I think, is yung digitalization.
02:45Kailangan tayo connected na digitally.
02:47So, number one po nito is makakausap namin ngayon yung weaver mula sa San Remiho and Tique through the center.
02:54Makakausap natin yung mga nag-hahabi sa Basilan, for example, or Tawi-Tawi.
02:58And this is exactly what this digital divide is trying to put together na kaya na natin ngayon mag-coordinate,
03:04kaya natin mag-synchronize, mag-usap, at lalong-lalong ngayon,
03:07lahat ng mga tao, lahat ng ating mga hubby nasa back-to-home base maga.
03:10So, they are trying to weave and this is the best time actually to communicate and talk to them
03:14and discuss also the technologies available for them.
03:18Nakakatuwa, Dr. Leano, kasi yung technology na co-connect ngayon, no?
03:21Usually, sa weaving, sinasabi parang baka mamaya maging obsolete, mawala.
03:26So, ngayon, nakikita natin, paano nakakatulong yung mga teknolohiyang ito
03:30sa pagpapabilis ng produksyon at pagpapataas ng kalidad ng mga hinabing produkto?
03:36Well, number one, unang-una po dyan talaga yung pagpasok ng bagong konsepto natin ng sinulin.
03:41Hindi na lang ito yung cotton na, alam mo yun, the normal cotton.
03:44Dapat may bago. Ano yung bago?
03:46Haluan mo ng pinya, haluan mo ng abaka, haluan mo ng banana, for example, even bamboo.
03:51So, these are the new yarns that we have developed.
03:53Sa natural dyes naman, instead na yung typical natin na jobus na dyes,
03:57we are now using different plant sources para magkakulay yung ating mga sinulin.
04:02And sa looms naman, meron tayong tinatawag na upright.
04:05Yung iba dati yung nakaraupo sa floor.
04:07Itatali mo sa kahoy yung iyong one.
04:10These are still part of tradition, but some of them also want to sit upright.
04:15And yun po yung ating hand looms.
04:16So, all of these technologies come into play, plus of course, yung strong po na pasok ng ating creative industries, yung creative direction, hindi po matatalo ang Pinoy doon.
04:25That's why the merging of our scientific developments and advancements, plus of course, our innate creativity, ay talagang nagko-converge sa ating Philippine textiles.
04:35Hmm. Nabanggit nyo, Doktor, yung bagong yarns, yung looms, yung dyes.
04:42Pero yan, malalaman niya ng mga weaver kapag sumailalim sila sa training.
04:48Pero ano po yung ginagawa ng DOST-PTRI upang isulong ang paggamit ng mga likas, sustainable at natural fiber-blended yarns?
04:58Sa labas naman, paano po magiging aware yung ating mga kababayan in general?
05:02Well, number one po namin platform, yung meron kami tinatawag na Cathabi.
05:06Alam nyo po, ang textiles, it has to be seen, it has to be felt.
05:10Yung Cathabi, actually, fashion show yun, mga ase.
05:12It's a fashion show, we need to see it, we need to feel it.
05:15So, sa Cathabi, doon nila nakikita.
05:17And you know, when people start to see it, you try to, you can start to imagine.
05:21So, dahil po doon, nasusustain natin yung creative ideas by providing all of this on the ground.
05:26We go to the ground, we go to the communities, we now even have the cotton PH program.
05:31Ibinabalik natin na mag-weave ulit tayo ng Philippine cotton.
05:34So, all of these are efforts para po mapagtagni-tagni natin yung ating mga, you know,
05:39all of these things happening in different fronts para yung ating mga weavers get to be updated.
05:43Not just with the design direction, but also platforms for them to show their creativity.
05:48Kailangan ko lang talaga sabihin, Ask Joby, fiber-blended yarn.
05:52Yes.
05:52Mula sa inyong dato sa Dr. Lianyo, ilan na po ang kasalukuyang bilang ng mga weavers at weaving communities sa Pilipinas?
06:01At paano po ninyo napapanatiling kultura ang pag-ahabi, no?
06:06Lalo na ang mga traditional na tela.
06:08Yung pinag-usapan natin, no, how do we ensure na itong tradisyon ay talagang hindi mawawala kahit high-tech na tayo ngayon?
06:15Yes. Meron tayo po, meron po kaming platform. We call it Salinhabi. It's actually a website.
06:20And right now, it's moving. We are now in the parang 6,000 plus handlung weavers na ang naitala dito.
06:26At pag naitala, alam po natin yung datos, hindi lamang edad o pangalan, pero you know even their capability.
06:31And then, pag sa handlung weaving communities po, nasa 500 na rin po yung mga handlung weaving communities across the Philippines.
06:36At matutuwa po kayo dahil around 40% of that ay nasa Cordillera at the other half po naman ay nasa Mindanao.
06:45So, it's a very strong, rebounding industry.
06:48Napapanatili po natin yung kultura because part of that Salinhabi is a documentation of all of these patterns.
06:54Like the one I'm wearing. One po ito. This is from Mindoro.
06:57So, documented po sila. They are part of the database.
07:00At pag database, hindi po yan publicly open.
07:03Pag ayaw ng community i-open yung details, hindi po yan makikita.
07:07What do I mean details? Yung papano po ay hobby.
07:10Kasi meron po itong tinatawag namin na parang kumbaga sa kanta, may musical score.
07:15At yun po ang nagbibigay ng idea, how to actually recreate it.
07:18But if the community says, oh, this is not for public consumption, then we protect it as part of their cultural property.
07:25May follow-up question ako, Doc. As ingit ko lang, sabi niyo may 6,000 plus na handlung weavers.
07:30May mga Gen Z ba dito at may mga millennial?
07:33Nakakatuwa at meron po.
07:34Yes, meron.
07:35At hindi lang Gen Z. Marami rin pong kalalakihan.
07:38So, this is the changing demographics of weaving.
07:40Dati po, highly women and a little bit older.
07:44Pero nung nakita namin yung datos, may mga 20 plus, even younger than the 20 plus age group
07:49because these are the second generation weavers already.
07:52That's good.
07:52And a good number of male who are also weaving.
07:55Sa ibang usapin naman po, Dr. Noong, pwede niyo po bang ipaliwanag kung ano yung TEXREV
08:02o Textile Revitalized Project ng DOST-PTRI at paano nagsimula ang initiative na ito?
08:10Pag nakikita niyo po, paragi tayong production.
08:13Saan mapupunta ba yung tela?
08:14And we know it always ends in landfills.
08:16And there's a huge problem ng solid waste po, especially sa taytay.
08:20Saan pupunta yung scraps?
08:21So, ang scraps normally ginagawang basahan, but yung basahan, technically, after mo magamit, one-time use, itatapon.
08:27So, it's still landfill.
08:28So, what we try to do is the first level of engagement is work with the local government in Tai Tai.
08:33We gathered some of the waste.
08:34By the way, this is a collaboration with Bio Foundation.
08:37At yung mga lilit po yan na scrap ng tela, pinaghiwalay po ulit and we get fibers again from them.
08:44And then yung fiber na yun, nagiging sinulid and then magiging tela ulit.
08:48So, it's part of closing the loop, ikaw nga, towards the circular economy bid of our textile industry.
08:53So, maganda po siyang way because, you know, as a matter of fact, this solid waste is a huge problem of our local government.
09:01Kasama po siya sa hazard ng textile industry.
09:04And because of this project, nakakaya natin without doing anything high-tech.
09:07Like, pinaghiwalay mo lang yung fiber and you can make new yarns again.
09:11So, ang maganda rin po, may buy-in and take ang ating private sector.
09:15So, the appetite is also there to go more circular, more green, and I think more responsible ang ating production at saka consumption.
09:22Doc, meron bang partisipasyon dito ang creative sector sa bansa?
09:26Tulad ng ating mga fashion designers sa pag-promote ng mga sustainable materials.
09:31Ano po ang mga role nila sa initiative na ito?
09:35Napakalaki po kasi itong design direction, kailangan saluin niya yung mga materialis eh.
09:39The materials can only go so far.
09:41Pero pag, alam mo, pag talagang hinawa ka na ng Filipino designer, nag-iiba talaga.
09:45And I'm referring to our, you know, to those who closely work with us.
09:50Yung mga miyembro ng Philippine Fashion Coalition, for example.
09:53The big names in the fashion industry.
09:55If I may mention, JC Wendia also works with us.
09:58Avel, Bakudio works with us.
10:00So, iba-iba pong niche and market yung ating tina-target.
10:03And ang isa sa mga gusto namin puntahan is because the uniform of government eh.
10:07Kasi kasama po sa batas, di po ba yun?
10:09Every Monday.
10:09Yes. The Monday is the civil service one.
10:12Pero meron po tayong batas na 90 to 42, which actually Monday is us to use locally made fabrics.
10:17Right.
10:18And for the four days na nag-uniforme tayo.
10:20So, we want to sustain the momentum and be able to, you know, channel it really,
10:24not just for patriotism's sake, but also for economic purposes.
10:29Kasi this is really a huge captive market that can man-revive po yung industry natin sa pagtitela sa Pilipinas.
10:35May plano ba, Dr. Leaño, ang PTRI na i-expand itong TexRev sa ibang garments manufacturers o yung fashion brands sa bansa?
10:46Yes. Opo, definitely.
10:46At hindi lang dito sa Taytay or sa Maynila or sa Luzon, we can even move to the Visayas, even to Mindanao.
10:52The model has been set, technologies have been developed, and you know, this is a, hindi ito kanya-kanya eh.
10:57That's why we also work with a lot of our brands para hindi matigil doon sa research output and then tumawid talaga siya.
11:04Magamit talaga natin, whether maging jacket man yan or maging, you know, home textiles, it's a huge market na nagaantay lang para sa atin.
11:12Paano po makikipag-ugnayan sa tanggapan?
11:14Well, napaka-active po ang aming Facebook page, DOSTPTRI Facebook page, and you can, you know, just drop a message there.
11:21Sasagutin po namin, ora mismo, para po agad-agad po tayo makakapagkaroon ng pwede pag-ugnayan at a working relations,
11:29ika nga, para po sa ating mga initiatives and textiles, garments, and the related industries.
11:35Maraming salamat po sa inyong oras, Dr. Julius Leaño Jr., Director ng Philippine Textile and Research Institute ng DOST.
11:42Thank you, sir.
11:44Thank you, sir.

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