London’s secret spots: A local’s guide to visiting the capital

The Independent

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00:00London's the sort of place that no matter how many times you visit there's always more to see.

00:14It's the kind of city that even if you live here it will always surprise you. Turn a corner and

00:21you're in a hidden garden. Down the steps you're in a centuries-old pub. Hop on a riverboat and

00:26the whole skyline shifts. In this episode we're bringing you a locals guide to the

00:32capital. No tourist traps, just smart ways to explore. So whether it's your first

00:37time visiting or your 50th, here's how to see it differently.

00:49London is built on stories and if you want to experience them live head to the

00:54official London theatre ticket booth in Leicester Square. It's got some of the

00:58best deals on the same day West End tickets. The West End is one of the

01:03world's most iconic theatre districts. It's a huge part of London's cultural

01:08identity and grabbing a discounted ticket at the booth is quite possibly the

01:12smartest way to catch an unforgettable performance.

01:15Not all stories are told on stage. Some are hidden behind heavy doors in total silence.

01:24This isn't your typical museum or gallery. Dennis Sever's house in Spitalfields is part

01:31museum, part art installation and part complete fantasy. Showing how some Londoners would have

01:38lived in the 18th and 19th centuries. One of my best London tips? Most of the

01:45capital's top museums and galleries are completely free to visit. It's a brilliant

01:51way to spend an afternoon, from blue wells to classic paintings and cutting-edge

01:55design, all under one roof and all without spending a penny. There are also fun,

02:00off-the-beaten-path alternatives to the big-name galleries. Unique, striking and totally

02:06full of character. It's the perfect place for an envy-worthy holiday snap.

02:13I'm meeting up with Johnny, better known as Bowl of Chalk, a local tour guide with a difference.

02:20He's built a following by showing visitors a side of London you won't find in the guidebooks.

02:25So Johnny, when people join your walking tours, what is it they're coming to you specifically for?

02:30I do two lots of tours. I have private tours and often it will be first-time visitors and they

02:36want to see the big sights but also make sure they see other things that they wouldn't ever find if

02:42they weren't with someone who knew the city. So get a little sort of insider experience, that's the thing.

02:49Your walking tours are filled with loads of amazing facts about London. Do you have one favourite fact?

02:55I don't have a favourite but I have spent about 15 years just collating them and as it happens

03:01I've got a book coming out, a fun fact book. Why is Downing Street painted black and 364 other fun London facts?

03:09That's the name of the book.

03:10OK, maybe tell me why Downing Street is painted black then.

03:14Downing Street is famously black, as you will probably know if you've seen it on the news.

03:20And when it was originally built by a not particularly nice politician called George Downing, it was a cul-de-sac that was actually yellow.

03:27And then 300 years of pollution turned it black and then they lost a couple of bits of it.

03:32So the bit that's left, you know, the number 10 door, that's there.

03:35And then in the 60s they were cleaning it and they cleaned off all this pollution and they were like, oh, it's yellow.

03:41So they literally painted it pollution coloured.

03:44So they painted over the yellow to make it the colour of pollution.

03:47Because that's what everyone was used to. Yeah.

03:49That's brilliant. So that's why it's painted black.

03:50I'm a born and bred Londoner. I've lived in this city for more than three decades.

03:54Is there somewhere that you'd recommend I visit that I've probably never seen before?

03:59So we had the Great Fire in 1666 and they lost about 30 odd churches and they basically never rebuilt on them and their gardens.

04:08So you have these what I call church size holes around that you can just find.

04:13They might be a little sunken garden or you're just behind a building as a little place.

04:17You can go and sit and have your lunch or which people wouldn't know about.

04:24Around every corner in London, there's something to stumble across.

04:27If you know where to look.

04:30Tucked between office buildings and busy streets, you'll find these calm little pockets of history like St Dunstan in the East.

04:37Bombed in the Blitz and turned into a public garden, it's now one of my favourite quiet spots in the city.

04:44One of the best things about London is that a lot of the city's creativity is right out in the open.

04:50Street art is one of those things you don't really need to plan for.

04:54Just take a walk through a neighbourhood like Brick Lane, Camden or Leak Street and the city will do the work for you.

05:00Every time you visit, it looks different. There's always something new painted or pasted up.

05:05If you're hungry in London, start with the markets.

05:11Burra is the city's oldest, a proper mix of heritage and high-end produce.

05:17From sourdough to spice blends, it's a feast for all the senses.

05:21And then there's seven dials. This modern and trend-led food hall is all about bold flavours and playful ideas.

05:29There's even a conveyor belt. We're trying to find different types of cheese and charcuterie. Yes, really.

05:35There's no shortage of good pubs across the city to sit down in after a long day of exploring and have a drink.

05:42But the ones with real character and history are worth seeking out.

05:46Steer clear of the chains and you'll find something with proper personality.

05:51One of my favourite recommendations is Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, tucked away just off Fleet Street.

05:57It's atmospheric. It's historic. Here, you really are stepping back in time.

06:03This place has been around since 1667, rebuilt after the Great Fire of London.

06:09Writers like Charles Dickens and Mark Twain were regulars.

06:13With its winding layout and church pew seating, it's more than a pub.

06:17It's a proper slice of London history.

06:20And then there's Vaulty Towers. It's like a backstage party in pub form.

06:25It's chaotic, it's creative and their boozy lychee slushy is dangerously good. Cheers.

06:36OK, Ted, let's talk about getting around London.

06:38If it's your first visit to the city or if you live here, like we both do, what would be your top tip for moving around?

06:44So first of all, I'd say if you're from outside London,

06:47check out the rail discounts on offer for getting into the city.

06:51Then once you're in the city, download the City Mapper app.

06:54The tubes are intimidating, the buses, well, they can be amazed.

06:58This app often gives you the fastest, cheapest and the most scenic way of getting around.

07:03It's a pretty good tip. And I would add to that, that it's probably a good idea to go paperless.

07:07It's very easy to tap in with your phone or contactless and it makes it a little bit easier, saves time and saves money.

07:12Absolutely. And if you want that scenic trip, I would say get on an Uber Thames Clipper.

07:18Meant to be a lot of fun.

07:19They are a lot of fun. They're a lot of fun. There's a bar on board and they go past loads of landmarks.

07:24So it's a bit of a river cruise for commuters or tourists?

07:27Yeah, absolutely. And if you ride it to Greenwich, I would get a cable car over the Thames.

07:32And that's something you've done recently?

07:33Yeah, I did it quite recently and it was gorgeous. The views were unreal.

07:37So you're a cyclist. You're a big fan of moving around on two wheels.

07:41What would be your tips for a budding cyclist in the city?

07:44I would say grab a line bike because they're everywhere.

07:47They're a great way to see Hyde Park and the canal and places like that.

07:52Some of the loveliest parts of London.

07:53Absolutely.

07:54And then you skip the traffic as well, I guess.

07:55Indeed.

08:02We've shown you a few of our favourite spots, but it's only a start.

08:06You'll find that London is the sort of place that keeps surprising you and we've barely scratched the surface of what's on offer.

08:12For more episodes of Travel Smart, you can watch on the Independent app or head online to Independent TV.

08:18And for more travel guides, news and advice for planning your next trip, head to independent.co.uk forward slash travel.

08:26Bye for now.

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