- 6/20/2025
Globe Trekker - 02x08 East Africa-Tanzania and Zanzibar
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TravelTranscript
00:00This is the Indian Ocean. I'm in between my two destinations. Over there, mainland Africa, Tanzania, and that is the small island of Zanzibar. I don't know much about it, but I'm just in love with the sound. Zanzibar.
00:30A land of vast plains, lakes, and mountains, Tanzania is the largest country in East Africa.
00:49From Zanzibar and Darussalam, I head to the wildlife sanctuaries of the Selu Game Reserve, Gombe Stream near Kagoma with its famed Chimp Colony,
00:59and the Serengeti, before ending my journey on top of Africa's highest point, Mount Kilimanjaro.
01:06This is Bredjoo, on the east coast of Zanzibar. This is my cottage. It only costs me $8 a night. It's home for home, and the view is free.
01:13This is my cottage. It only costs me $8 a night. It's home for home, and the view is free.
01:20Famed for its beaches, this is the perfect place to chill, before or after the rigours of the sea.
01:27This is my cottage. It's my cottage. It only costs me $8 a night. It's home for home, and the view is free.
01:34Famed for its beaches, this is the perfect place to chill, before or after the rigours of a long journey.
01:50There's thousands of beautiful shells on this beach, like this one, which is called the raster shell, but I'm afraid you can't pick them up and take them home with you.
02:03Because what's happening, it's ruining the environment on the beach here. So, just got to throw it back.
02:22They might care about their seashells in Zanzibar, but apparently not their seaweed, which they export to a hungry Japanese market.
02:38Have you got a little factory somewhere in the village?
02:41No, there is no factory. We use factory from the godson.
02:45Do you eat it like this?
02:47No, the people are not eating. The people of the village.
02:51Right.
02:52But you can taste.
02:53I can taste?
02:54Yeah, you can taste.
02:55Why?
02:56Yeah. And not bad.
02:57Not bad?
02:58Not bad.
02:59That's disgusting.
03:08Yeah. Sorry.
03:10If some Japanese come from Japan, we know how to cook from them, because they teach us.
03:16But the people in the village are not eating this.
03:19They don't eat the seaweed, but a good day's work calls for a decent bit of dinner and a dance.
03:24From Spice Islands, we've got cardamom, kumran seeds, black pepper, garlic, and cinnamon. That's it. I just remembered. And it all goes to make this lovely dish. The pillar rice.
03:55It's better at the end of the day.
03:56Mmm.
03:57That is the best.
03:58Mmm.
03:59Mmm.
04:00I'm in Zanzibar town. This area is called Stone town. Because of the small roads, the best way to get around is on a mean machine like this. Make sure you've got a springy saddle, because the roads are dodgy.
04:22This town is such a maze. I'm completely lost. There's lots of brilliant things to see. But if you're taking pictures of people, you've got to be really sensitive, because they don't love it.
04:40That much. But there's loads of other things to take off. Children of African, Arab, and Indian descent play in the shade of the Anglican Cathedral.
04:55Zanzibar is 98% Muslim, a legacy, like Stone town, of the island's Arab influence. But the cathedral is a memorial to the work of the Christian anti-slavers.
05:10Tanzania suffered more heavily at the hands of the Arab dominated slave trade than any other East African country. British anti-slavers, like Livingston, felt it their Christian duty to oppose the trade.
05:25This crucifix is made from the tree under which his heart is buried. The altar was built on the site of the Orchard block. The circle marks the point where the slaves were tied to the tree and beaten.
05:40The slave market was closed and the church was built in 1877, although the trade continued to 1922.
06:01Nearby are the slave chambers. Dennis is the official guide. The tours are free, but you may be asked for a donation.
06:11This is a terrible place where the slaves were kept before they took to the market.
06:17They used to keep women and children 115.
06:21In this room?
06:22Yes, in this small room. Most of them, in fact, died because of suffocation.
06:27And the way they packed them here, it was like Saladin in the top of each other.
06:32You know, if most of them died, why did they...
06:34In fact, the Arab or the slave trade in those times, they are crazy.
06:38They say if you survive in this condition, you are strong and you have a high price.
06:44So how many would survive out of 115?
06:47In fact, they say it's only 6% survive. So most of them become weak and die later.
06:55Who were the slavers?
06:57The slaves were Arabs. They used to put their hands in a long chain, 300 people or more.
07:03You walk as far as the area with ivory leggings.
07:06Yeah, with this round your neck?
07:08Yes. And if you tie down the way, you broke the cullivan, so they kill you.
07:13After they chop your head, they kill you.
07:15What's the importance of David Livingstone, Zanzibar and here?
07:20In fact, Dr Livingstone, he helped a lot in abolition of the slave trade here.
07:25Because when he passed here in 1857, after observing the suffering of the slave trade,
07:31so it gave him pain. And when he got back to England, he appealed there,
07:35caused a group called UMCA to be established.
07:39University mission to Central Africa.
07:41We thank God the slave trade is over.
07:46This is the House of Wonders, and under every column they sacrificed a slave when they built it.
07:52And check those doors out. Zanzibar is famous for decorated doors.
07:58The Zanzibar doors, they are very important for decoration of the house.
08:02And the door, you can see different kind of the door, which is decorated with a different style.
08:08That depends how rich is someone.
08:11If you are a rich person, then you can have the whole door, which is decorated.
08:16You can see the two lions on the top.
08:19This is, it means that this door is only with the royal.
08:23If you walk around in the street, you can't find the lion, but you can see still decorating, very good one.
08:29The doors are several hundred years old. They used to be exported, but now they are protected.
08:59If you are hungry, and you are looking for cheap food, this is the place to come.
09:03Jamaturi Gardens.
09:05Mango juice, it is nice and international.
09:08So I am going to get involved in the local speciality. Zanzibar Pizza.
09:12Woah! And this is it. What is this pastry?
09:16Bince meat. An onion.
09:19Thanks. No, that's two of them anyway.
09:31Oh, it's going to be hot.
09:38That's good.
09:42What are they? Chicken on a stick and beef on a stick.
09:45The kebabs are good. The sugarcane. The octopus is lovely.
09:48Meat. The chips. The mango chips.
09:50Or any of the juices.
09:56This is the best way to round my meal off tonight.
09:59A nice bit of ice cream.
10:01But it ain't the ordinary ice cream. There's no chocolate and vanilla here.
10:04Being the Spice Islands, this is cloves, lemongrass and ginger.
10:12Lovely.
10:29There is a problem with the port tax here in Zanzibar.
10:32You have to pay in American dollars.
10:34And they're quite hard to come by in the bank, so make sure you bring your own.
10:37I know the dows look nice, but the trouble is some of them take about 24 hours to get to the mainland.
10:47And some of them don't make it at all.
10:50So I'm taking the hydrofoil.
10:52in the heart to follow.
10:53.
10:59.
11:02This is Dar es Salaam, the capital city of Tanzania.
11:30And for a big town, it doesn't seem to have that hassle, those mega crowds.
11:34In fact, it's quite relaxed.
11:36Lots of bargains to be had.
11:38I'm going shopping.
11:41Legend has it that the Macondi tribe evolved when a lonely man shaped a woman from a piece of wood,
11:47which then came to life.
11:49The couple moved north to Tanzania from Mozambique,
11:52and their child was their first ever Macondi.
11:55There's so much work gone into these carvings.
12:00It's a bit of a shame that a carving like this would cost about $30 or $40 overseas.
12:08But the locals and the people here are lucky to give out $3 for it.
12:13So they've also turned to more political statements.
12:16This is bloated belly, which represents the famine.
12:20And this is the starving child.
12:35It was hot.
12:36I was restless.
12:39My friends have been telling me to get out more.
12:41So I decided to check out the hottest place in town, where all the expats hang out.
12:53Smokies.
13:00Eating and drinking, the mainstays of expatriate life.
13:04Meet Katra, my hostess, for the night.
13:06There isn't a lot to do in Dar es Salaam, and their social life is drinking.
13:12And where do they go?
13:13To get drunk?
13:15Yeah.
13:15There's several places.
13:17There's the Yacht Club, which is a member's...
13:19The Yacht Club?
13:20The Yacht Club.
13:21And they have a lot of expatriate members, and basically what they do there is they get drunk,
13:25and then there's a Europub.
13:27Europub?
13:28Yes.
13:29What are the activities?
13:30Haven't they got a run that they do as well?
13:32Yes, they do.
13:32They have the hash.
13:34The hash?
13:34The hash is called the hash house.
13:36What's that?
13:37What happens is you meet at someone's house, and then you just run.
13:42Start off from there, everyone gets a map, and you run basically.
13:45You run or you walk if you can't run.
13:47But then at the end of it, they have what's called an on-on, which is where if you're a
13:52new member, and you're going there, they have to initiate you, right?
13:55Oh, no.
13:55So you're sitting there, and like, yes, we have a new member, Ian, and everybody goes,
14:00yeah, yeah, yeah, you know, all like grabbing huge glasses of beer, and then what they do
14:06to initiate you is they pour the beer on your head.
14:09Yeah, and then you're in, are you?
14:10You're in.
14:11This is a boozer's paradise.
14:12Okay, let's go.
14:13I'm going to get it on camera.
14:15Come on.
14:16Get on one.
14:20Although dominated by Brits and South Africans, an increasing number of expats are from Scandinavia.
14:26But Catra was right.
14:27They all seem to speak the international language of alcohol.
14:30Just don't ask me about last night, okay?
14:56Don't ask.
14:56Anyway, I'm really looking forward to a four and a half hour plus journey on this train
15:02to Selu Game Reserve.
15:05The Tzara is one of the world's great railways.
15:09Built with Chinese help, it runs 1,162 miles into the heart of Zambia.
15:16Travel is cheap on the railways, and the rail side vendors make sure that you never go hungry.
15:26At 30,000 square miles, Selu is the world's largest game reserve, bigger than Switzerland.
15:45B.O.B.O. Camp is one of the more luxurious places to stay, costing $200 a night with all
15:52the mod cons and the safari thrown in.
15:55Well, it's an early night for me, because I've got to get up early tomorrow for my first ever safari.
16:08So, good night and close the door, please.
16:13What did you do?
16:29I'm used to these early starts.
16:45We used to run a market stall in London, but we certainly didn't have this fly problem.
16:51Anyway, this little trip is a bit of a bonus, because the main part of the day is going
16:57to be a river safari.
16:59This East African wilderness has largely been untouched by people, and supposedly contains
17:06the world's largest concentration of elephants, buffalo, crocodiles, hippos and wild dogs.
17:13The highlight is the river safari on Lake Tagala.
17:20The safaris take a day, and the Bayo Bayo camp, one of the few places to stay in Celo, will
17:33arrange one for you.
18:13Oh, this is beautiful.
18:20Hot sulfur streams only five minutes away from the main lake.
18:27Yee-yee-yee-haw!
18:34Concelo, it's a four-hour flight to Kagoma in the far west.
18:39Light planes provide an expensive aerial taxi service.
18:43Chartering in small groups makes it more cost-effective,
18:46but not as cheap as the train.
18:48But that takes two days, and even then, it's unreliable.
18:58From Kagoma, it's a short boat ride on the massive lake Tankanika
19:03to Gombe Stream, home of the world-famous Chimp Reserve.
19:06When you come here, you've got to remember to bring all your provisions with you.
19:29And I'm not taking any chances.
19:39The accommodation is somewhat basic.
19:41It's hard to know whether you're being kept in or the wildlife out.
19:57There are plenty of baboons about, but the focal point of Gombe are the chimps.
20:02It's reconciling their interests with those of tourism
20:06that has occupied the founder of the reserve, Jane Goodall, for 25 years.
20:10I think tourism is a very important issue.
20:15It's clearly a two-edged sword.
20:18If you have more people than an area can support, you destroy it.
20:23And it's very hard if it's bringing in good money for somebody in charge of that program
20:28to say, well, I won't have any more.
20:30They all, of course, want to have more and more and more.
20:33Most tourists, the ones who come here, they have to pay $100 a day
20:37to parks just to come in, whether they see the chimps or not.
20:41So you have to have people come, spend $100, and prepare to be disappointed.
20:47If people get too close, if they're not sensitive, if they have a disease, it can be passed.
21:14Chimps are so like us.
21:15They catch all our known infectious diseases.
21:18We can catch theirs.
21:20Some of the chimpanzees in the main study community are actually quite aggressive to strangers.
21:25It can be dangerous, which is why we're, and that's, the Jane Goodall Institute
21:31is paying for the young people who are habituating the chimps in the north.
21:36And that's to take some of the tourist pressure off the main study community
21:41and move it to a group that isn't so well habituated.
21:45Habituating the chimps, getting them used to coping with people, involves living in the
22:00middle of dense jungle, often alone and under trying conditions.
22:04Steve is a Californian who's been living out here amongst the chimps for almost two years.
22:13Have you got little, like, personalities and characters?
22:16Completely, yeah.
22:18Personalities, histories, habits, whatever.
22:23Are there any drawbacks about living out here?
22:28Like, do you miss things, or?
22:30Um, yeah, I miss the ocean.
22:33Yeah.
22:35I get malaria a lot.
22:37You get malaria a lot, yeah?
22:39That's a drawback.
22:40Yeah.
22:41Do you miss people out here at all?
22:44Um, no.
22:46No?
22:46No, I, I, no, I think I tend to forget.
22:51I mean, I remember, and I suppose I can have fond thoughts and everything, but, no.
22:57Yeah.
22:57You find if you go back home, everything's the same as it was when you left it.
23:04Despite all this, the biggest threat to the chimps still comes from humans.
23:08In, um, places like Saudi Arabia and Dubai, it's the thing to have a little collection
23:19of exotic animals, and you must have a chimp.
23:23Um, some chimps get smuggled through into East Europe or Mexico or Cuba or somewhere in
23:28South America for medical research or for entertainment.
23:31We offered a reward for anybody who saw a chimp, and this person led the police to where these
23:42hunters had the chimps in little boxes, very sick of the chimps.
23:47One died immediately, and one died a little later.
23:49It's a long detour to get out here to the shores of Lake Tankanika, and unless you can
24:09charter a small, light plain, it will take you several days of land travelling to get back
24:14to more well-known safari destinations.
24:19This is Arusha, it's a hustle-and-bustle town.
24:32It looks like one giant car boots out, but this is the place to come to sort out your safaris.
24:39You know, we want a safari, but maybe we're going to be staying again.
24:42We are looking to safari, we're going now.
24:45It's okay.
24:45But you've got to be careful, because there can be a lot of hustlers in this town.
24:48So before you strike a deal, make sure you ask the right questions.
24:54So, Mr. Dowdy, what am I going to get from my money?
24:57Oh, you'll get a lot.
24:58First, I'll give you a landroman to take you to Ngorongoro.
25:02You will have three meals a day.
25:06Do I get a driver with that?
25:08Oh, of course, yes.
25:09So, it's Ngorongoro crater, Maasai, Serengeti, Cuddly toy, cook, guide, accommodation, and loads of animals.
25:18And lots of animals, yes.
25:22Great.
25:23Bargain.
25:24Thanks.
25:24But hold up.
25:26Before all that, there's a few things here in Arusha that you've got to suss out.
25:30Like, street signs sponsored by Coke.
25:33And Pepsi.
25:34Great shop fronts.
25:35They actually drive on the left-hand side of the road here, but it's quite hard to tell, because there's so many potholes.
25:56Thousand milers. Perfect sandals for those rough roads.
26:05From Arusha, you can take the well-traveled but spectacular safari circuit, which takes you to the famous Ngorongoro crater and the massive Serengeti plain.
26:26This is the Olduvia Gorge, known as the Cradle of Mankind, and it was in this area that Lewis Leakey discovered the skull of the Nutcracker Man, which dates back to over 1.7 million years old.
26:43So, his wife had to go one step better, and over there, she found some footprints dating back to about 3 million years old.
26:52So, this is where we all began.
26:56Nearby, the giant Ngorongoro crater is home to East Africa's most famous tribe, the Maasai, and a stunning range of wildlife.
27:12There are luxurious lodges with fantastic views all around the crater, but hey, who needs a room with a view when you can stay in a tent?
27:33It's really, really important, if you can, to speak to other travellers and see what tour companies they've been using.
27:39What's it like at night, sleeping there?
27:42Sleeping on the camp. It's quite an experience. You have to get used to the sounds of the animals and stuff.
27:48They can keep you awake the first one or two nights.
27:52Is it quite loud then?
27:53Very loud.
27:54Yeah. Do they come sniffing around your tent?
27:57Well, I had an experience last night that I was damn sure that a baboom was trying to get in my tent last night.
28:03What do you think is the worst thing about?
28:04I think the hassle. I think you could spend more time preparing, like walking around Arusha a couple of days and have a good look at each company and see what they do with your money.
28:24And I think it's a once-in-a-lifetime experience for most of them. So it is a lot of money, but then you better spend it right.
28:33They've got rather nice tents, I'm not saying.
28:35Yeah, with beds and mattresses and clean sheets and nice. I mean, it's a camping safari, but it's very luxurious.
28:44God, you should see my tent. I barely got it up.
28:46What's the best thing or experience you think you've had on this?
28:50It's the best experience. Probably seeing a leopard, dragon, a wildebeest up a tree, and then it and its friend dined on it. It's quite good.
29:04Although the Maasai are commonly associated with Kenya, they've been around the Ngorogoro Crater for over 150 years and are the area's main residents.
29:23Traditionally nomadic cattlemen, in recent years they have been encouraged to make settlements.
29:27It's our culture and tradition to wear our hair this way.
29:57It's also a romantic to have it like this when we're dancing or singing together.
30:01It's a clear, living symbol of our tradition and culture.
30:05It also proves that you're a true Marani, sticking to your tradition.
30:08You're different from the others.
30:09So if you see somebody who doesn't have the plats, he might have done that for a particular reason, but that makes him an exception.
30:14We drink cow's blood because it makes the body stronger and warmer. It's good for children and the elderly to build up their strength. Milk just doesn't have the same effect that blood does.
30:37These Maasai boost their income by selling beads to tourists.
30:41In a way, tourists help us retain and develop our culture.
30:48We don't usually perform all these ceremonies, but we can keep them alive by doing them for the tourists.
30:53It doesn't destroy our culture because the tourists don't tell us to change our way of living.
30:58They just come and observe what we are doing.
31:02What they've done is they've set up this village, the cow and the dancing, strictly for tourism.
31:09They actually live about 10 miles that way.
31:13And the last thing they want is people like me traipsing around their village and interfering with the culture.
31:19They're actually quite sussed.
31:23Serengeti is Maasai for endless plains.
31:26They're full of animals, but it's not all sex and violence like on those wildlife programs.
31:32For most of the animals, it's more like another day at work.
31:35It's more like everybody's in the town.
31:39Yeah!
31:44Really.
31:45Really.
31:46Really.
31:48Really.
31:52The zebra's about mine, but I've held the wildebeest up to here, mate, up to here.
32:12Alone in the wilderness.
32:14Well, not quite alone.
32:16On these tours, it's impossible to get away from the rest of the jeeps, but that's the
32:21way it is.
32:22At $300 a blow is a very expensive way of getting away from it all, but save up those cents
32:44and do it.
32:46This is a definite must.
32:48A hot air balloon over the plane.
32:50I've been driving around, I've seen them on the floor, but this isn't my fears.
32:55This is a must.
33:03It might cost a lot of money, but I think when you're out here, you've got to fork out the
33:08readies to go for this.
33:09It just looks amazing from it.
33:10Yeah.
33:11Don't look at me like that.
33:12I know I'm a jammy git, and I get to do all these great things, but it's got to be done.
33:21It's one of the largest fork in the world, in Africa, it's 15,000 square kilometers.
33:39And with these flights, I mean, from the balloon, you can see very large planes, what you cannot
33:47see from the car.
33:48From the car, you cannot imagine how big it is.
33:51It's just the best way to travel, do you reckon, to see it all?
33:55Yeah, I think so.
33:56It's very special.
33:57I mean, it's a nice experience.
33:58Probably that's the best country to do it, to have the balloon experience.
34:02There is no power line, no building, nothing, just nature.
34:06It's my first flight ride, it's just incredible.
34:09So you don't know where we're going to land?
34:27Sorry?
34:28You don't know where we're going to land?
34:33You're looking forward to the landing?
34:48As long as it's not an emergency one, yes.
34:51I think they only do emergency ones here.
34:54With my luck, there is always a tree in front of me before landing.
35:01So it can get quite dangerous landing this thing.
35:04No, it's not dangerous because the baskets are very safe, it's just a bit bumpy.
35:08Put her in love.
35:09Landing position, please.
35:12Whoa!
35:15Whoa!
35:16OK, don't get out, stay on board, please.
35:19Whoa!
35:22Don't get out.
35:23Not yet.
35:24I will wait for the balloon completely deflated, all right?
35:27No.
35:31Three day safari like this cost about $400, not including the balloon trip, but worth every
35:38cent.
35:39Next stop, Kilimanjaro.
35:46It's over 19,000 feet to the top of Kilimanjaro.
35:54Climbing it can be expensive, but it's essential to have a good guide.
35:59The Marango Hotel is a little bit of England in Tanzania.
36:06It's owned by Seamus, an ex-policeman who organises mountain climbs.
36:11The only way that people tend to be able to do it on a budget now is to trust themselves
36:18to some really quite shady individuals who approach them on the side of the street and
36:24say, I can organise your climb.
36:27I'm a guide.
36:28And...
36:29Is that dangerous?
36:30Well, it can be, yes.
36:31I mean, we know of instances where in the busy season, when the weather is getting bad,
36:42some of these so-called guides simply abandon their climbers at Kibo Hut and sort of point
36:49to the top of the mountain and say, there it is, go for it.
36:53How many times have you climbed it?
36:56Six times now, yes.
36:58Have you enjoyed all of them?
37:00I enjoy all of them to an extent.
37:03They all hurt.
37:05But the pain actually is forgotten, eventually, and you remember the good things.
37:14What, a year later or so?
37:15Not actually so much.
37:17Well, in theory, this is what should happen.
37:20Four days up and one day down, but in between that, there could be a lot of hitches like
37:27altitude sickness, generally being knackered and miserable.
37:33But, I'm going to try very hard on this one.
37:36Very hard indeed.
37:40This is the last bit of Kilimanjaro.
37:43I'm on my own.
37:44The port has left me.
37:46Get up here.
37:47Come on.
37:48Fair enough.
37:49There it is.
37:50That's my first glimpse of the mountain.
37:52Don't look too far away.
37:54I've walked for about six hours and I still haven't even got half way.
38:01What I need right now is a hot bath and a cup of tea.
38:07What's it feel like when you're at the first point at the top?
38:22Um, I kind of got emotional.
38:23Why?
38:24Why?
38:25Because I have been there.
38:26Been there and done there.
38:27Is that why?
38:28Ticket off my list.
38:29Yeah?
38:30I don't know.
38:31No.
38:32And how do you feel about that decision now?
38:33I wish I'd been there and done that.
38:38Our guide came over and kind of gave us a big hug and some congratulations.
38:53The most important thing, I think, is to have an image of yourself on top of the mountain.
38:59I really, really wanted to reach that point.
39:01There's no greater accomplishment.
39:03I mean, it can be compared with sex, in my opinion.
39:05I got sick along the way and kind of lost my cookies and I was ready to turn back.
39:10So it'd be good to have sex up there then, wouldn't it?
39:12Oh, yeah.
39:13I mean, that's something I haven't done.
39:15It would probably be very nice, yes.
39:17I kind of wanted to burst out in tears.
39:19I don't know if it was because I was so tired or what, but it was the toughest thing I'd ever done.
39:23And so it was a real sense of accomplishment.
39:25I really do feel good and I'm ready for tomorrow.
39:28In fact, I'm a bit worried because I feel I'm turning into a Sunday morning rambler.
39:35And that's scary.
39:36And that's scary.
40:06Come and have a look at me accommodation for tonight.
40:16Ooh, lovely.
40:21I feel like Steve McQueen from The Great Escape.
40:28I'll call the king.
40:35This is the last part of the nightmare.
40:41I'm planning to get to Gilmore's Point.
40:44It's just five hours that way.
40:47About that steep.
40:49And then when I'm there, Uhura's Point is another one and a half hours,
40:53which is the actual summit.
40:55As you see, I'm kitted out and only gay kind of clubs.
41:00There's only one thing for it.
41:02I don't know.
41:25It's been a six-hour climb to get here to Gilmore's Point, just to see the sunrise.
41:38And although it's been a really hard climb, and it almost killed me, you know, that sense of achievement you get at the end?
41:48Well, I haven't got it at all.
41:51I hated it.
41:52It nearly killed me.
41:53It's not better than sex.
41:55And I feel like dying.
41:57I've been this legend.
42:02I'm three years later.
42:03I haven't been through to win and my parents came down.
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