MILAN - “Birds,” cited Cédric Charlier as his point of takeoff for this season. “Because they are the symbol of heaven and the symbol of soul . . . but that is just my starting point, and after that it is about intuition.” The first look was closed and contained, still grounded, a double-layered redesigned duffle coat with a split collar and scalloped hem in double-face wool that we saw later in coated check. Finely cut aerodynamic shirts and pants—menswear was another starting point here—were intersected by belts of bicolored marabou that flapped with the wind as they passed. A leather trenchcoat and bomber, plus some knits, came in dégradé shades of blue that looked like a bruised sky, selectively photographed and filtered by an artistic contemplator from above. Long menswear suits were folded in against the lower buttons at the hem like wings half furled in flight.

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