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This series explores some of the most fascinating and hard-core boat journeys on the planet. We undertake epic journeys by boats in some of the toughest environments on earth. During our journeys we look at how the technology of boat travel has been adapted to survive, trade with and connect isolated communities.
Starting his journey at the southern end of Lake Tanganyika, the world’s largest freshwater lake, Zay travels north for over 300 miles on the extraordinary ‘Liemba’, which is not only said to be the world’s oldest surviving passenger ferry, but also has an incredible wartime history. The imposing 230 foot long ship, originally named the Graf von Goetzen, was built in 1913, when Tanzania was part of colonial German East Africa. At the start of WWI in 1914, the ship was converted into a warship, fitted with powerful guns to fight ships from nearby British and Belgian colonies. In 1916, however, the ship’s German commanders were forced to scuttle it in order to prevent its capture by the British or Belgians. The location of the sunken ship was soon discovered, and when the war ended in 1918, the British and Belgians attempted to lift it up from the lake bed. In 1924 it was finally raised to the surface, and astonishingly, despite being underwater for 8 years, was in good enough condition to be placed back into service as a passenger ship. Today, a century on, it continues to provide a vital service ferrying hundreds of local Tanzanians up and down the lake. After a fantastically enjoyable two-day journey aboard the Liemba, stopping at remote villages along the way, Zay disembarks at Kigoma, towards the northern end of Lake Tanganyika.
Heading on from there in a ‘lake taxi’, that is a small overcrowded open boat carrying over 100 villagers together – Zay reaches Gombe Stream National Park, where he goes trekking through the forest in search of wild chimpanzees. Zay’s luck is in, and he has a rare and remarkable encounter at close quarters with an extended family group of over 20 chimpanzees. 150 years ago, the central African region around Lake Tanganyika was a main location where slaves were captured, an estimated 1.5 million of whom were force-marched over 750 miles to the coast of the Indian Ocean, before being shipped by dhow to the slave market on the island of Zanzibar off the Tanzanian coast.
For the last part of his journey Zay follows this tragic and traumatic trail, sailing on a traditional working dhow trading goods to Zanzibar. Traders have sailed the Indian Ocean for thousands of years in these tough and historic boats, whose design has barely changed since the days they carried slaves. The ocean crossing by dhow is a spectacular though poignant end to Zay’s once-in-a-lifetime Tanzanian adventure.
Starting his journey at the southern end of Lake Tanganyika, the world’s largest freshwater lake, Zay travels north for over 300 miles on the extraordinary ‘Liemba’, which is not only said to be the world’s oldest surviving passenger ferry, but also has an incredible wartime history. The imposing 230 foot long ship, originally named the Graf von Goetzen, was built in 1913, when Tanzania was part of colonial German East Africa. At the start of WWI in 1914, the ship was converted into a warship, fitted with powerful guns to fight ships from nearby British and Belgian colonies. In 1916, however, the ship’s German commanders were forced to scuttle it in order to prevent its capture by the British or Belgians. The location of the sunken ship was soon discovered, and when the war ended in 1918, the British and Belgians attempted to lift it up from the lake bed. In 1924 it was finally raised to the surface, and astonishingly, despite being underwater for 8 years, was in good enough condition to be placed back into service as a passenger ship. Today, a century on, it continues to provide a vital service ferrying hundreds of local Tanzanians up and down the lake. After a fantastically enjoyable two-day journey aboard the Liemba, stopping at remote villages along the way, Zay disembarks at Kigoma, towards the northern end of Lake Tanganyika.
Heading on from there in a ‘lake taxi’, that is a small overcrowded open boat carrying over 100 villagers together – Zay reaches Gombe Stream National Park, where he goes trekking through the forest in search of wild chimpanzees. Zay’s luck is in, and he has a rare and remarkable encounter at close quarters with an extended family group of over 20 chimpanzees. 150 years ago, the central African region around Lake Tanganyika was a main location where slaves were captured, an estimated 1.5 million of whom were force-marched over 750 miles to the coast of the Indian Ocean, before being shipped by dhow to the slave market on the island of Zanzibar off the Tanzanian coast.
For the last part of his journey Zay follows this tragic and traumatic trail, sailing on a traditional working dhow trading goods to Zanzibar. Traders have sailed the Indian Ocean for thousands of years in these tough and historic boats, whose design has barely changed since the days they carried slaves. The ocean crossing by dhow is a spectacular though poignant end to Zay’s once-in-a-lifetime Tanzanian adventure.
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TVTranscript
00:00I'm in Tanzania, East Africa, on the first leg of what should be a spectacular journey of well over a thousand miles.
00:09My journey starts with a 300-mile voyage on Lake Tanganyika, on the world's oldest passenger ferry, the Liamba.
00:20Starting from Kasanga on Lake Tanganyika, the Liamba is taking me north all the way to Kigoma,
00:26gateway to nearby Gombe Stream National Park, where I'm going trekking in search of wild chimpanzees after getting there in a local lake taxi.
00:38Personal space, who needs it? Comfort? So overrated.
00:48From Kigoma, I then travel by train 750 miles east to Tanzania's biggest city, Dar es Salaam.
00:56And the nearby port of Bagamoyo, from where I end my journey sailing to Zanzibar.
01:03I'm on the Indian Ocean, sailing on a dhow, fighting the winds just to stay on course.
01:09Move, move, move, move, move, move, move, move, move, move, move.
01:26This is supposed to be a boat journey, and yet it's a big adventure just getting to Lake Tanganyika.
01:38We've been going for six hours since we landed at the nearest airport, but we're nearly there.
01:42We're nearly there.
01:56Wow. Let's stop here for a second, yeah?
02:00We finally made it. Lake Tanganyika, the longest freshwater lake in the world, right here in the middle of Africa.
02:13Ah, this is beautiful and serene. It's much bigger than I thought. I mean, this looks like an ocean almost.
02:20Look, that's Kasanga. That's where I'm catching my boat. Doesn't really look like a busy port, but it is what it is.
02:31Better get down there so I don't miss the boat.
02:33Apart from at Kigoma, 300 miles north, there are no tarmac roads anywhere along the Tanzanian shore of Lake Tanganyika.
02:44So going by boat is much the easiest, fastest, and cheapest way to travel along the lake.
02:52This is it, yeah?
02:54This is the dock for the liemba?
02:56Yes, yes.
02:58Okay. Thank you very much.
02:59Thank you very much.
03:02Doesn't look very busy, but I'm told this is the takeoff point.
03:09Hello.
03:17Liemba, liemba is coming?
03:22Just after sunset, the liemba finally arrives.
03:25The liemba's arrival is a really big event for the locals, because apart from being the one and only passenger ferry on Lake Tanganyika, it also only travels once every fortnight.
03:43As well as transporting up to 200 tons of cargo, it can carry up to 600 passengers.
03:49Number five, three, this must be, yep, yep, number one.
03:52Hey, not bad.
03:55Got my own personal space on a very busy boat.
03:58It looks like I might have a roommate.
04:00It's a little warm.
04:02Yep, that works.
04:07That's good.
04:09All right.
04:11Well, it's been a long day, a long journey to get to.
04:14busy boat. It looks like I might have a roommate. It's a little warm. Yeah, that works. That's
04:22good. All right, well, it's been a long day, a long journey to get here, and I'm tired,
04:29so I'm going to go to bed. Good night. There are only 12 first-class cabins like mine on
04:36the boat, with the vast majority of passengers traveling much more cheaply in third-class,
04:40sleeping where they can as we travel through the night. From Kasanga, the Liemba's journey
04:49up Lake Tanganyika is scheduled to take nearly two days, as it stops at lots of villages along
04:54the way. I'm getting off at the boat's final port of call, Kigoma, before heading on to
05:00Gombe Stream National Park.
05:10It smells the best in here, but the shower should have been. It's good.
05:27Wow. What a great way to start the day. Who needs coffee when you've got a view like
05:43this? This water is so pure blue. Life on the lake, huh?
05:57First-class passengers share the use of the restaurant with the Liemba's crew. But the
06:14vast majority of passengers traveling in third-class must either bring their own food with them
06:19or buy it from small food stalls on board. How much are the bananas?
06:24Banana... 500.
06:26500. So that's like 25 cents for a bunch. There we go there. I just want one banana, so...
06:33You want one?
06:34Yeah.
06:35Why not, right?
06:36Mmm. Nice and ripe. So it seems like there's a lot of people in here right now. Actually,
06:46it's going to get a lot more packed from what I'm told because every town picks up more and
06:51more people, more and more people, as they head to the big city of Kigoma.
06:55All right. So here's how it works. The Liemba pulls up to certain towns and villages,
07:09blows its one really loudly, alerts them. They come out here. Most of these places don't
07:14have a dock, so they have to get in a boat, and they come on out, and they exchange passengers
07:18or goods, do their thing, and then we move on. This is very chaotic, this whole process
07:25of getting on and off. It happens at every stop, and there's people pushing, shoving, shouting,
07:30screaming. Not just people. They've got mattresses. Look at that. Materials and suitcases.
07:36And they're bobbing up and down. It has to happen now through this one little door.
07:41I worry for these guys, and they're really scared they're going to miss the boat.
07:47Horn blowing. If they do miss it, they'll get another chance for two more weeks.
07:54They need my help, okay? Cut me some slack here. I don't know what I'm doing.
08:02Faster, faster, faster, faster. Come on, come on. Come on. Go, go, go.
08:09Bye-bye.
08:14Bye-bye.
08:21What about you? Are you enjoying the transport?
08:26Even foreigners have a good time with it. Myself included.
08:31Yeah.
08:32Yeah.
08:43Yeah.
08:52Yeah.
08:53As it turns out, there is in fact one village along the lake that does have a jetty where
09:09the Liamba can dock.
09:10All right, so this is Kapili, and this is the only stop along the way where you can
09:16just get off and be right on dry land, not do the boat-to-boat transfer.
09:20So I'm going to explore for a few minutes.
09:23Hi.
09:24Hi.
09:25How are you?
09:26Is there, there's a church here, right?
09:27Like an old, the oldest church in Tanzania?
09:30Yes, there's one up there.
09:31Yeah?
09:32Yeah.
09:33How do I get there?
09:34Just straight up this path here?
09:35This one.
09:36Come out, show it.
09:37Are you sure?
09:38Yeah, no problem.
09:39I'll have to wait here.
09:40Yeah.
09:41What's your name?
09:42And you?
09:43Zay.
09:44Nice to meet you.
09:45Nice to meet you, too.
09:46Welcome to Kapil.
09:48Yeah, it's no problem.
09:49It's not too far.
09:50Not too far.
09:51Yeah.
09:52So this boat only comes in every two weeks.
09:54Do you get a lot of tourists coming in here?
09:56Not a lot.
09:57The only way is through the boat, the Limba.
09:59Yeah, that's the only way.
10:01Do people explore the church while they're here?
10:03It's only a few minutes.
10:04We have to kind of hurry to get to the church and then get back on the boat.
10:08We miss a dozen come back for two weeks, right?
10:10Yeah, of course.
10:11That's what will happen.
10:12You need to hurry.
10:13There it is.
10:14Yeah, that's the one.
10:16Watch your steps.
10:17Any snakes around here?
10:18Yeah.
10:19You should be careful.
10:20Thanks.
10:21Here you are.
10:22That's in really good condition.
10:23I was expecting a ruin.
10:24Good location, that's for sure.
10:25Yeah.
10:26Top of the hill here.
10:27Look at this.
10:28This is impressive.
10:29So what year was this built?
10:30It was 1890s.
10:311890s.
10:321890s.
10:33And still…
10:34By the white father's missionaries.
10:35The white father had a mission to free slaves around these areas.
10:39So they're going out buying slaves, acting like they're going to be the master's
10:42so what year was this built it was 1890s 1890s by white fathers missionaries the white father
10:52had a mission to free slaves around these areas so they're going out buying slaves acting like
10:59they're going to be the masters but then bringing them here and they're not making them slaves yeah
11:03and then they built the church so the slaves actually helped build this yeah they did so
11:07they didn't build it as slaves being like forced to build it but they were freed and offered yeah
11:13if you want to help you can sure that's what that's what happened they're really talented and
11:18skilled yeah masons look at that they did a really good job yeah because they were offered freedom
11:23anything for freedom yeah no kidding oh that's my boat i gotta go okay thank you so much
11:31say a prayer i make the boat okay it was nice meeting you
11:37thank you so much
12:07It says firehose.
12:21I wonder if that's more efficient than a firehose.
12:27Noise the engine.
12:30Ah, the lifeboat.
12:37Hmm, I'm a little concerned here, because as you can see, each lifeboat only carries
12:4439 people, and there's only two on board.
12:47Now, I'm no mathematician, but that seems entirely inadequate for a boat that can carry
12:52more than 500 people.
12:54And another thing, this boat was built almost the exact same time as the Titanic.
13:00We all know how that ended.
13:01They didn't have enough lifeboats either.
13:04Luckily for me, we're not expecting any icebergs.
13:10In the unlikely event that the Liamba did happen to sink, all the hundreds of passengers who
13:15couldn't get in the lifeboats would need to cling to one of these floating lifesavers.
13:20The remarkable thing is, during its 100-year-long lifetime, the Liamba has sunk before, back
13:26in 1916.
13:28And the reason it sunk?
13:29Amazingly, during World War I, the Liamba was a German warship.
13:40When it was built in 1913, the Liamba, originally named the Graf von Goertzen, was intended as
13:45a passenger ship on Lake Tanganyika, which was then part of colonial German East Africa.
13:51But when war broke out in 1914, it was converted into a warship and fitted with powerful guns
13:58designed to sink an enemy ship up to seven miles away.
14:04World War I, although it mainly took place in Europe, of course, grew to involve Europe's
14:09many African colonies.
14:11Lake Tanganyika, in particular, bordered not just German East Africa, but also British Northern
14:16Rhodesia and the Belgian Congo.
14:21The Graf von Goertzen was used by the Germans as a troop ship to ferry its soldiers across
14:26the lake.
14:27But as it turned out, it never got the chance to fire its guns in anger.
14:32In June 1916, the Liamba, or Graf von Goertzen as it was called back then, was bombed from
14:38the air by Belgian seaplanes.
14:40A month later, with Allied ground forces closing in, the German commanders felt they had no other
14:45choice but to scuttle it or sink it themselves to prevent the British or Belgians from capturing
14:50it intact.
14:53After the war ended in 1918, the location of the sunken ship was discovered by the British
14:58and the Belgians.
14:59As it had been scuttled in shallow water, an ambitious recovery operation could be launched.
15:04And in 1924, after over a year's hard work, the huge 1,600-ton, 230-foot-long ship was
15:12raised to the surface successfully, then renovated and renamed the Liamba.
15:18By the late 1920s, it was back in service as a passenger ship.
15:24It's absolutely astonishing that a ship this size could be raised from the bottom of the
15:28lake.
15:29And even more impressive, that after eight years of being completely submerged underwater,
15:34from 1916 to 1924, that it was still in good enough condition to be put back into operation,
15:40and is still being used today.
15:44Today, the Liamba's hull is still original, dating to 1913.
16:01But the rest of the ship has been modernized over the past century, including the heart
16:05of the ship, the engine room.
16:10The engine room is very noisy, of course, when the ship's traveling at full speed.
16:14But luckily for my eardrums, we're coming up to a stop offshore from another village.
16:19Ah, hi, how are you?
16:24Good, thank you.
16:27So, this surely isn't the original engine that was here when it was built in 1913?
16:32No, no, no, no.
16:33These were installed later.
16:35They were installed in 1993.
16:371993, these engines?
16:38Yeah, these are a bit older.
16:41A bit old.
16:42The engine's old age slows down the Liamba, and the historic 1913 design of the ship's
16:49hull doesn't help either, due to the unusually long propeller shaft.
16:54The shaft's old-fashioned design means that a significant amount of the engine's power
16:58is lost along it.
17:03The Liamba may not be as efficient or as reliable as more modern ships, but with its remarkable
17:09wartime history and its status as the oldest passenger ferry in the world, still in regular
17:14service, it well deserves its nickname, the African Queen.
17:21Hello.
17:22Can I come in?
17:23Please come in.
17:24Hi, Captain.
17:25Hi.
17:26So, you're the captain of this whole ship?
17:29Sure.
17:30That must feel good, huh?
17:31Yeah.
17:32I feel good, because I feel like I'm carrying some history.
17:35I'm carrying the world history, so I feel very good.
17:40This has been going for over a hundred years.
17:44What's the condition of the boat?
17:45Is it barely holding on, or is it going to go for a hundred more?
17:48The outer shell, the vessel is still very strong, but engines are very old.
17:52They need repair, but the outer shell still can survive more than a hundred years.
17:57So, that's where the potential is.
17:58As long as the shell is good, the hull is good, you can keep going.
18:01Yeah, you can keep going.
18:03That's amazing.
18:05Alright, well, thank you very much.
18:07I better let you get back to work.
18:08Okay, thank you very much.
18:09Okay, see you.
18:10Bye-bye.
18:11For all of its history, of course the Liamba isn't as fast as more modern ships.
18:23But it's no bother.
18:24No one's in any rush.
18:26And it's a beautiful journey.
18:28Fromད scripted
18:42And it's here that is Iron Tide.
18:45Warum is it?
18:48You want to play?
18:50Yeah, what's going on?
18:51No, do you want to play?
18:53We're into the last few hours of the voyage, but all through the night we continue to stop
19:03offshore from villages for more and more passengers to clamber on board.
19:08This is absolute mayhem. Insanity. As if it's not hard enough to do this anyway during the day,
19:15they're doing this at night. This is the horn. They're like telling him, hurry, hurry, hurry.
19:20Add pressure to this situation. What really got me was just seeing these babies being
19:26tossed by one arm at a time and you just watch the mother. She's like, oh, you know, two of her kids
19:33are just being like dangled like that. And then she's trying to get up and they're all trying to
19:36shove as the boat's going up and down. These guys don't have a choice. This is their only way to get
19:43to the big city. They have to wait on this schedule and it happens to come at night. They got to deal
19:49with that.
20:06Morning.
20:06At last, after nearly two days on the lake, we're arriving at our final destination,
20:21Kigoma, the Liemba's home port.
20:24What an amazing experience to be part of such a historical ship that's been going for over 100
20:29years and still going strong. That is one tough boat. No wonder they call her an African queen.
20:43Spreading inland from the port, Kigoma is by far the biggest Tanzanian town on Lake Tanganyika.
20:49It's a bustling, colorful place, but for the traveler, its main claim to fame is as a jumping
20:54off point for nearby Gombe Stream National Park, one of the best places in the world to see chimpanzees in the wild.
21:00Keep it easy. Excellent.
21:09All right.
21:10Here we go.
21:18I'm keen to head to the national park straight away, and to get there, I'm planning to travel on another tough boat.
21:24But there's only one trip a day to Gombe, and the boat's due to leave soon, so there's no time to lose.
21:29I'm traveling by boat on this next leg in my journey, not just by choice,
21:37but because Gombe Stream National Park isn't reachable by road. Catching a boat is the only way to get there.
21:45You can hire a private boat to get to Gombe, but it'll cost you at least $200, which is fine if you're in a
21:50group, but it's a lot for one person. So I'm going to do as the locals do at Catch a Lake Taxi. And this
21:57looks like it over here. Could be an interesting trip.
22:02Is this going to Gombe?
22:03Yeah, yeah, that's the boat is going from the noise now on.
22:06So how do I get there? You're going there? Okay, okay.
22:08Yeah, okay. We can go together.
22:15Oh man, I almost missed the boat. It looks a little crowded, but I guess you get what you paid for.
22:23As it happens, the price of the trip is just a couple of dollars. It's only around 15 miles to
22:28Gombe Stream National Park, but apparently the journey is likely to take at least two or three
22:33hours as the boat stops at quite a few villages along the way.
22:47It's nice to finally stop. We're closer there. We've been going for an hour.
23:00So this is the last stop before Gombe?
23:03Yeah.
23:05It certainly is a long trip to be squished in like this, huh?
23:10Yeah.
23:10And you guys do this regularly, all the time.
23:12Yeah, it's very crowded.
23:14But the other option was to hire a private taxi boat, and that would be $200. So I'm saving $198.
23:22It's worth it, I think.
23:23Yeah, yeah, yeah.
23:24You've got to get used to people's hands just coming and landing on the night, don't you?
23:31It's really crowded.
23:33There is no way to escape it.
23:36Yeah, yeah. I mean, this is the only way to get to Gombe.
23:39Yeah. And it only comes once a day.
23:41Yeah.
23:41So everyone scrambles to get on it.
23:43Yeah.
23:43And everyone's accommodating.
23:45Yes.
23:55Bye. Thank you.
24:00Wow. Are you sure that was only three hours?
24:03Yeah.
24:03That felt like all day. At one point, I just got into this trance. It's so hot, I just zoned out.
24:11We're finally here, Gombe. This is amazing.
24:14Yeah. And this is the entry of National Park.
24:21And this is the gate where you can check in and enjoy the day and enjoy the forest, enjoy the chimpanzees.
24:31I appreciate it. It saves you money. Nice guy.
24:38This is quite cool.
24:40Hello.
24:40Hello.
24:41Our entry fee is 100 US dollars per day for the 24 hours and the 24 day guide.
24:48And the 24 day room.
24:49Do I just take cash?
24:50No, no, no, no. We are not taking cash.
24:52No, you don't.
24:53Yeah, we don't like the cash. Now we are using only card.
24:56It's odd, isn't it? It's the opposite of what you'd expect. You're in the middle of nowhere and you don't take cash. You only take credit card.
25:03Yes, please. Yeah.
25:04Cash tends to disappear.
25:06That's why we like to take a card.
25:08It's very official, isn't it?
25:10So, what are the chances of seeing a chimpanzee?
25:13Yeah, we hope so.
25:13Hope so.
25:14I just paid 140 dollars. I took a boat all the way all day. I took another boat for the last couple of days. I need to see some chimpanzee.
25:23What's the guarantee?
25:25We never know.
25:27I hope I find them.
25:29You are welcome.
25:30All right. This is exotic. My own private guest lodge with its screened-in veranda.
25:47Here's my bedroom. Got a mosquito net that's essential around here. But this is what I'm more drawn to.
25:56My own private beach. What? Are you kidding me?
26:03Might have to go for a sunset swim. Woo! This is living.
26:26Oh, and it's nice, too. Woo! It's big enough to be an ocean, but it's fresh water. This is so nice.
26:35If you want to take a hike here, you've got to have a guide. This is Edie. He's my guide.
26:57Hi.
26:58And hopefully he leads us to some chimpanzees.
27:00We're hiking high up into the mountains, where the chimpanzees were last seen yesterday evening
27:09by the National Park's trackers, who follow the chimps' movements.
27:14These trackers do this every day.
27:16Yeah, they do every day.
27:18Woo!
27:24This is a good place to radio the trackers. Just know where the chimps are.
27:29Yeah. The reception is better up there.
27:30Yeah.
27:30Yeah.
27:30Yeah.
27:31Yeah.
27:31Yeah.
27:32Uh, well, well, well.
27:34We're here at Jane's Peak.
27:36Uh, what are they doing now?
27:37What are they doing now?
27:38They're doing some fun or they're going to be playing?
27:40Yeah.
27:41They have to go put a lot.
27:43They're going to get there.
27:46Ah, yeah.
27:47Santa sana, Santa sana, Santa sana.
27:49Okay, so what they say, the chimps are there.
27:52Let me show you where they are.
27:53They're a little bit down from the grass.
27:56Okay.
27:56Why are they so high?
27:58Yeah, they are there because around that place is where you can find a lot of fruits.
28:03That's why they go there.
28:04Okay, smart.
28:05That's exciting.
28:06Let's go see them.
28:07Yeah.
28:13After another hour or so walking through the forest, we get all the way up to the tree line.
28:18I thought you said the chimpanzees were in the trees before the grass.
28:22Yeah.
28:24In order to reach there, we have to come up to the grass.
28:27Then we go down there.
28:29We've got to go over to the next ridge.
28:30Yeah.
28:34Once we've crossed the ridge, we get back into the forest and finally we're nearly there.
28:39The chimpanzees, it seems, aren't far ahead.
28:46Can you hear them?
28:48That's them.
28:49That's them.
28:50Yeah.
28:51Since the chimpanzees are always on the move through the forest in order to find the best
28:58ripe fruits, they're hard to find near the trail.
29:01But today, my luck is in.
29:03The main group of chimpanzees is still ahead of us.
29:06But before long, we catch up with a couple of stragglers right by the trail.
29:10A mother and her daughter.
29:11Look at them.
29:12There's one in the tree.
29:13There's one down here.
29:14There's just so loud here.
29:15So we can see someone that's out there.
29:16Yeah.
29:17Let's go down closer.
29:18I'm going to pull it.
29:19I'm going to pull it.
29:20I'm going to pull it shut.
29:21Wow.
29:22Look at that.
29:23How exciting.
29:24I had my doubts, but here we are.
29:42Amazingly, we can get even closer to the chimpanzees because here at Gombe, as they've been so extensively
29:48studied by researchers, they aren't scared of humans.
29:52They're just eating the foods.
29:54It's called miswankala.
29:55Miswankala.
29:56Miswankala.
29:57That is the uvarian angolensis.
30:01That is scientific.
30:02Scientific.
30:03Yes.
30:04So they eat the ones that are right.
30:06So they just suck the juices and then spit out the seeds.
30:09Yeah.
30:10Should we be scared?
30:11What should we do?
30:12This is sad.
30:13She's used to people.
30:14She's used to people.
30:15She's scared.
30:16That's incredible.
30:17She's 42.
30:1842?
30:1942.
30:20How old do chimpanzees usually live to be?
30:22Well, they go up to 50.
30:2450?
30:2555.
30:26Yeah.
30:27So she's 42.
30:28She's almost lived her full life then, huh?
30:36And what's this one named?
30:38This is Siri.
30:39Siri?
30:40Yeah.
30:41She's the baby.
30:42Yeah.
30:43She's about nine years.
30:44Nine.
30:45This is incredible.
30:46This is incredible.
30:53Remarkably, a short distance further along the trail, we come across the rest of the group,
30:58numbering over 20 chimpanzees in all.
31:00This is amazing.
31:011, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14.
31:05But they're down on the ground.
31:06All of them.
31:07They're just resting after eating.
31:08Now they have to rest.
31:09They're resting.
31:10Yeah.
31:11They're resting.
31:12Yeah.
31:13And you can see Anna.
31:14They're just grooming.
31:15Just don't move the tits.
31:16They have tits.
31:17They clean it up.
31:18Yeah.
31:19How old is this baby?
31:20This one on the left and the first one.
31:21She's about two maybe.
31:22One year.
31:23One year.
31:24Yeah.
31:25Yeah.
31:26Each one of these chimps has been accounted for.
31:27You guys know their age and their history.
31:28Everyone in the whole jungle.
31:29Yeah.
31:30That's amazing.
31:31But one of the group is missing, the leader, the alpha male.
31:45You're so cute.
31:46You're the one that's joining right now in the alpha male, fed land.
32:04For you, then.
32:05He's 23 now.
32:07That's him in the middle now.
32:08They're respecting him.
32:09That is the boss.
32:11Ah, the community.
32:13I did not even see him. He was right by me.
32:17He keeps his eye on us, huh?
32:19Yeah.
32:21As the alpha male, Ferdinand has fathered lots of babies by many different females.
32:26The babies, who will stay dependent on their mothers in the extended family group for up to seven years or more,
32:32spend much of their time playing, practicing the skills they'll need in adulthood.
32:37Ferdinand, it seems, has decided it's time to move on.
32:46Where the alpha male leads, the others follow.
32:52Oh, here comes a little baby.
32:55They just swing on in, don't they?
32:58And he made it.
33:00So the baby ones seem to have like a pink face and the older ones have a dark black face.
33:05Is that part of the aging process?
33:07Yeah.
33:08Yeah.
33:08It's amazing how similar they are to humans.
33:12You know, their nails look just like human fingers.
33:15And their faces are just very similar to ours and expressive.
33:18And as you can see, you can appreciate them by face.
33:21Because of their individual-looking faces, you can just tell right away who they are.
33:25Yeah.
33:26Much like people, we can, once you get to know them, you realize each one is unique.
33:31Yeah.
33:33So...
33:33Oh.
33:35They thought just like humans.
33:37Yeah.
33:37Ha ha ha.
33:41I never imagined in my wildest dreams I would get so close and just get to hang out in the
33:46wild with chimpanzees.
33:48I mean, how unusual is this?
33:50Or is this every person that comes here gets to come do this?
33:53No.
33:54You know why?
33:55Because most of the folks are not near the trail.
34:00So most of the time they spend in the forest.
34:03This has not happened for almost a month.
34:06That's incredible.
34:07Yeah.
34:07What an experience.
34:09Yeah.
34:09It's been the experience of a lifetime getting such a rare and privileged close-up view of
34:17wild chimpanzees here at Gombe.
34:18But now it's time for me to move on.
34:34Bye Gombe, that's the park.
34:36From Gombe, I get a lift back towards Kigoma in the National Park's own boat.
34:42So fortunately, I don't have to wait around for the once a day lake taxi.
34:45All right, we made it.
35:11You're a rock star.
35:18Thank you so much.
35:19Amazing experience.
35:21I'll always remember that.
35:22Appreciate it.
35:23Bye.
35:35But 150 years ago, it saw some hellish scenes.
35:39Back then, Ujiji was the main port on Lake Tanganyika.
35:44And over the years, hundreds of thousands of slaves who were captured from the Congo across
35:49the lake were landed here in big wooden sailing boats not so different from this one here.
35:59For the final part of my tough boat journey here in Tanzania, I'll be following the exact
36:04route that the slaves were taken on.
36:06From Ujiji, the old slave caravan route stretches 750 miles across the country to the ocean.
36:17Today, the first mile or so of it is lined by an avenue of ancient mango trees.
36:24These mango trees are hundreds of years old.
36:26So it's chilling to think they were actually here when the slaves were marching past them.
36:37It may seem pretty now, but it's estimated that up to 1.5 million slaves marched this route
36:43from Central Africa to the East Coast.
36:45Along the way, tens of thousands died.
36:49If they were sick, if they couldn't keep up, they were just left here.
36:53So this is actually a road of death.
36:55For me to walk all the way to the coast like the slaves did before they were taken by sailing
37:07boat to Zanzibar's slave market would take me about a month.
37:11So instead, I'm traveling by train from Kigoma all the way to Dar es Salaam on the coast.
37:16Nowadays, there's a train that leaves two to three times a week from here to Dar es Salaam,
37:25and I'm about to miss this train, so I've got to go.
37:27All right, so I bought my ticket in advance for 75,000 Antonean shillings, which is less
37:48than $40.
37:49Not bad.
37:50Actually, really cheap for first class and a journey of over a day and a half.
37:54I'm in third class now, so I've got to get all the way to the front of the train.
38:07All right, this is me.
38:08Not bad.
38:11There's actually a lot of space in here.
38:18Ah, thank you.
38:20Ah, look at that frosting.
38:24Ah, now I can sit back and enjoy the ride.
38:31Ah, the scenery is beautiful outside, but I have to keep reminding myself that every step
38:40along this journey, the slave caravan came along.
38:44I'm trying to take that in as well to appreciate just how long this was if they were forced to
38:51walk.
38:51The train journey from Kigoma does in fact follow almost exactly the 750-mile-long route
39:01that the slaves walked 150 years ago on their way to the coast and Zanzibar Slave Market,
39:07diverging only at the end near Dar es Salaam.
39:10For me, imagining the horrific suffering the slaves experienced on this route puts into helpful
39:19perspective the tiny hardships of train travel today, even in first class.
39:23This light system is very ancient, you just connect these or take them off.
39:31Oops.
39:32Sorry.
39:33Hi.
39:34Hello.
39:34I'm just getting light in here.
39:36That's how you do it, right?
39:38Like that.
39:39Okay.
39:40Hi, how are you?
39:41How are you?
39:42I'm fine.
39:43Good.
39:44You're going to have a problem of theft.
39:45A theft problem.
39:46A theft problem.
39:47Okay.
39:48Because of that, I would like to tell you that you have to make sure the window is closed
39:54when you are ready to sleep.
39:56Okay.
39:57So, you have a problem of theft over the roof.
39:59There's thefts on the roof?
40:00Yeah.
40:01It's coming from the roof and enter my room.
40:03Yeah, in your room, through the window.
40:06This happens a lot?
40:07Yeah, it does.
40:08A lot of times.
40:09Several times.
40:10Okay.
40:11So, here we are just closing the window, like this.
40:14Yeah, uh-huh.
40:16Put the wood here.
40:17Oh, I see, okay.
40:18So you use the stick to keep it closed.
40:21Okay, so keep this locked on there, all right?
40:24Make sure the door is closed, lock the door.
40:27Okay, thank you, Fred.
40:29Thank you very much.
40:33It's nice of that, the police men to come in and make sure I understand that they're
40:42doing their part, but I need to do my part as well.
40:45All right, that is secure, doors locked, windows, secure, bags under there, oh, the light.
40:53Good night.
40:54Oh, good morning.
41:03Well, I had a pretty good sleep, or should I say sleeps?
41:08It's very off and on.
41:09They blow the horn really loud at every stop.
41:12And then the stops are sometimes quite abrupt, where it jerks you and jolts you up.
41:16But to put all those little pieces together, I'm happy I slept.
41:21Ugh, let's see, the bag is still here, that's good.
41:25That means this window worked.
41:27Yep, first class is the way to go.
41:30Whoa, what is this?
41:34Ha!
41:35Was I just saying this is first class?
41:38Oh, there it is.
41:39All right.
41:40Get some fresh air in here.
41:45Oh, nice out.
41:52Let's see what they're selling here.
42:06Lots and lots of bananas and sugarcane.
42:09Look.
42:10Sugarcane piece.
42:11Just a small piece.
42:13Okay.
42:14Look at what I bought.
42:15Look at all this sugarcane I bought.
42:17I bought sugarcane for the whole trade.
42:20Now I just got to figure out how I'm going to eat all this.
42:24I'm going to have so much sugar, I'm going to be amped up by the time I get there.
42:27Sugarcane for everyone.
42:29Woo!
42:30You want a piece of sugarcane?
42:32Some sugarcane?
42:33Yes.
42:34Okay.
42:35Okay, thank you.
42:36Ah, here we go.
42:37Someone is eating sugarcane.
42:38They can explain to me.
42:39Hello, how are you?
42:40Good, thank you.
42:41Can I get your help?
42:42Yeah, okay.
42:43I don't know what to do with it.
42:44Do I chew this and swallow it or just chew it and spit it out?
42:49Throw it out.
42:50And throw it?
42:51Yeah.
42:52And you hope nobody's on the other side?
42:53Nobody's outside.
42:54At lots of the stations along the way, there are people selling local souvenirs.
43:06But you've got to be quick to buy stuff because the train only stops for a few minutes.
43:11What do you got?
43:12What do you got?
43:13Wooden spoons?
43:14Those are pretty.
43:15How much?
43:16500.
43:17500.
43:18Beautiful.
43:19Let me get two.
43:21Yeah.
43:22Look at that.
43:23All one piece.
43:25Beautiful.
43:27What do you got?
43:28What do you got?
43:29What are these?
43:30One cousin.
43:31What are they?
43:32Whistles?
43:33Ah, nice.
43:34All right.
43:35I'm ready to depart.
43:36All aboard.
43:37Let's go.
43:38Next up, Dar es Salaam.
43:43Finally, after a few more hours traveling through the countryside towards the coast, we
43:55reach Dar es Salaam and the end of the line.
44:01That was quite a journey.
44:11After two days on this train, I finally made it here to Dar es Salaam.
44:16But I'm not stopping here.
44:17Instead, I'm going further on up the coast to the old 19th century capital city, Bagamoyo.
44:24Forty miles up the coast from Dar es Salaam, Bagamoyo today is a small sleepy coastal town
44:30full of crumbling ruins.
44:32But 150 years ago, it was a rich and busy slave port.
44:36The last site on the African mainland for hundreds of thousands of slaves who'd walked
44:41here all the way from Lake Tanganyika and beyond.
44:44Even the name of this place carries a poignant memory of the tragic history of slavery here.
44:50Bagamoyo translates as here lay down your heart, essentially abandon hope here, which is no
44:57doubt how the slaves felt as they were loaded onto the sailing boats and forced to leave
45:02their homeland forever.
45:05Today, Bagamoyo's fleet of traditional merchant sailing daos, which once transported humans
45:11to be bought and sold at the slave market on Zanzibar, just 25 miles away, carry much happier
45:17kinds of cargo to and from the island.
45:19Tubs of cooking oil, for example, which are cheaper to buy on Zanzibar, are a popular item
45:24that's traded in this direction.
45:27Tomorrow morning, many of the daos will be sailing back to Zanzibar with other goods
45:35that are cheaper here on the mainland.
45:37To end my tough boat journey here in Tanzania, I'm hoping to hitch a ride to Zanzibar on one
45:42of the daos.
45:43I just need to find a friendly captain who will take me.
45:46Excuse me.
45:47Do you know where I can find the captain of one of these boats here?
45:52I'm Iri.
45:53Iri.
45:54Iri.
45:55You okay?
45:56This guy in the red shirt.
45:57This one here.
46:00Iri.
46:01Iri.
46:02Hello.
46:03Are you the captain of one of these boats?
46:08Yeah, I'm the captain of the boat.
46:09Hi, I'm Iri.
46:10Iri.
46:11Iri.
46:12Nice to meet you.
46:13Are you guys making a trip anytime soon to Zanzibar?
46:15Yeah, we expect to leave at 6am.
46:186am tomorrow.
46:19Excellent.
46:20I'm wondering if I can hop on board with you guys.
46:22Yeah.
46:23Just catch a ride.
46:24I'll pay.
46:25But just I need a ride.
46:26No problem.
46:27It's possible?
46:28Yes.
46:29So how much would that cost?
46:30Pay me 200.
46:31200?
46:32Yeah.
46:33No, it's too much.
46:34I'll give you 150.
46:35You want it?
46:36Okay.
46:37Let's not complain.
46:38All right.
46:39You happy with that?
46:40Okay, excellent.
46:41So I'll see you what time tomorrow?
46:426am.
46:436am.
46:44All right.
46:45I'll see you then.
46:46Okay.
46:47The next morning just after dawn, I make my way out to rendezvous with the dhow.
47:09The captain is keen to get going immediately.
47:11So as soon as I'm on board and we can get the sails rigged, we head out to sea.
47:18We're off to Zanzibar.
47:20Traders have sailed the Indian Ocean in beautiful dows like this one for not just hundreds,
47:25but thousands of years.
47:27And it feels very special to be making this journey in such historic fashion.
47:31The dhow's cargo, however, is as ordinary as can be.
47:36So what are you guys taking here?
47:38We have tomatoes, carotis, potatoes, chocos.
47:44So it's mostly produce you bring into the island.
47:47They don't grow it over there.
47:48Yeah, yeah.
47:49So we're going very slow.
47:50Is this the pace we go the whole time?
47:52Yeah, yeah.
47:53Especially if you have the wind like this, we have to go slowly.
47:56So how long will it take to get to Zanzibar?
47:59Five or six hours.
48:00But all of this depends on how the wind blows.
48:02Five or six hours?
48:03Yeah.
48:04That is a long day.
48:05Well, we better help with some wind.
48:07Well, it's good that it's not too sunny yet because it's going to get high, huh?
48:12Yeah.
48:13Before long, as the sun climbs higher in the sky, the heat does kick in,
48:17which helps the wind pick up too.
48:21To make the most of it, we have to re-rig the sail.
48:24This is tough work, huh?
48:25You pull with your whole body weight and it barely moves.
48:26It's strong.
48:27When you look up at it, it's like, woo!
48:29With the work done and the wind now fully in our sail, happily, I can just sit back and
48:47enjoy the rest of the spectacular ride to Zanzibar.
48:50Finally, we see the coastline of Zanzibar in the distance.
49:05We're almost there.
49:07For me, sailing to Zanzibar has been a really enjoyable end to my Tanzanian adventure.
49:11But of course, 150 years ago, his voyage was a tragedy for huge numbers of people.
49:18The name Zanzibar sounds fantastically exotic and romantic.
49:22But let's not forget that over one and a half million slaves were shipped to Zanzibar
49:27on boats like this in the 19th century to be sold at the slave market.
49:31That's over one and a half million lives crushed for profit.
49:38Zanzibar, of course, is just one of many places in the world that once profited hugely from
49:43the selling of slaves.
49:44And in any case, today that history is long in the past.
49:48For me, stepping ashore will be the end of what's been an amazing Tanzanian journey.
49:55Life is tough here, and so are the boats I've traveled on.
49:58Starting with the remarkable Liemba on Lake Tanganyika and finishing here on this beautiful,
50:03hardworking Tao, this whole trip has been an amazing experience and one that I'll never
50:08forget.
50:09Thanks for sharing the adventure.
50:10Bye.
50:11Bye.
50:12Bye.
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