00:00I have a memory of my first experiences swimming around with a camera in a pipeline and I would
00:27be the only one out there with a handful of surfers watching these beautiful waves you know wow this is really a beautiful wave I'm going to shoot this wave it's funny when you see a photo of somebody you haven't seen in 20 years minimum it's just reminding me how good some people were then how is it to see some of these when you haven't seen them in 30 years
00:57this is mine this is mine I love seeing everybody's different take on it it's very cool
01:08when we got that house in 1979 at sunset that was that was really the dream right there I developed that film I processed that in my dark room
01:23those are the boys you got the pictures of the right guys those are the best servers in the world
01:29well it was only like there was only a half full of guys surfing Jerry Lopez, Bruno Abolaro, Jock Sutherland, Barrick and I think I actually just sit on the beach and just be mesmerized by these guys
01:40you know the stories are really the best part about all of them
01:45you know what you got to do you got to definitely get on to the guys that work at Surfing Magnet
01:49because they're going to give you a big hand on this
01:56they have to create the dream they have to figure out a way how the hell do I change the whole world so they can pay me to go surfing
02:03and that's what we did
02:06there's Jock Sutherland
02:08oh my god
02:10I can obviously kind of see how close to a curl you can get in the upper hand
02:15with a curl you know in case then you get a little too cocky
02:18and you're going to work a little bit and get in the head
02:21you know that's that's a memory that I'm going to cherish forever because it just it's not possible to experience that anymore
02:35what do you think Larry would think of all this?
