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  • 24/05/2025
Setting tubeless up on road bikes can be a tricky process and there are a lot of mistakes that can be made. However, Sam Gupta has taken his years of experience as a mechanic to share all his knowledge on how to successfully set up a tubeless system on your road bike. Starting at the very beginning, all of these top tips for setting up tubeless will mean that hopefully you can get it done right first time round.
Transcript
00:00I'll be honest, ever since tubeless tech made its way onto road bikes, I was never a fan. It felt
00:05like the same products that were being used in the mountain bike world were just being repackaged
00:10and marketed to road bike users. The issue being that the requirements of the two different
00:15disciplines are actually pretty different. During my time working as a mechanic, I also saw all the
00:21problems that the technology was causing people, from simply trying to get it set up in the first
00:26place, to blowouts, to then punctures that just wouldn't seal. In fairness, being a mechanic does
00:32mean you're always left to pick up the pieces and maybe not seeing all the times that the technology
00:37is actually working. So this may have pushed my bias further into the extreme. As reluctant as I was,
00:44I have now ridden a fair few bikes with tubeless setups. So I'm going to pair that experience with
00:49all the time that I spent setting up other people's tubeless systems to let you know everything that I
00:55wish I knew at the very start. I'm going to start at the very top because before anyone gets anywhere
01:05close to leaving their inner tubes at home, we need to make sure that we've sourced all of the
01:10correct components. We have actually made an entire video comparing some of the most popular sealants
01:15on the market, so you can go and give that a watch to work out which sealant you would want to use.
01:20In this instance though, I'm going to be using this, the Stan's sealant. I've also got
01:25some pretty standard valves and I'll be using these Paneracer Agilist TLR tyres. And then for the
01:32wheels, we have got the Hologram R45 wheels from Cannondale. Luckily, these wheels are actually
01:38tubeless ready because they have the tape pre-installed. Now, one of the key things that
01:44you don't want to get wrong at the very start is actually your tyre selection. Even though you can set
01:49up tubeless with narrower tyres, I would always opt for something that's kind of 28c as a minimum.
01:56As we know from the gravel and mountain biking world, tubeless works best at lower pressures.
02:01And I'm sure there's a whole bunch of you that have been running tubeless setups on 25c tyres,
02:06and you maybe haven't had any issues. But I would potentially put this down more to luck
02:11than anything else. If you want to make sure that you're giving your sealant the best chance possible
02:16at doing its job, then go wide on your tyres so that you can run a lower pressure.
02:26It's pretty well known that tubeless tyres can be a complete nightmare to get onto your rims. It can
02:32almost leave you feeling like you'll never be able to stretch them on. You can end up with blood
02:37blisters, sore hands, and not to mention just feeling incredibly demoralised. But there are a few
02:44things that you can do to make life a little easier when it comes to getting them onto that rim for the
02:49very first time. Before you try and actually get them onto the rim, what I would say is place your new
02:55tyres somewhere warm overnight. Ideally, maybe next to a radiator, as that is going to help the rubber
03:02become more malleable. Then, if you have an older set of wheels, try fitting the tyres to these first
03:08with an inner tube and stretch them out a bit. Now, of course, sometimes older wheels which aren't made
03:13for tubeless setups can be a little easier to mount tyres to, but this can be a little bit hit and miss,
03:19so don't worry if it doesn't work out. If, however, you can get the tyres on, again, I would say leave
03:25them inflated with that inner tube, again in a warm place, and it's just going to make those tyres a little
03:31bit easier to manage. Getting your tubeless wheels ready and prepared is absolutely crucial before
03:41you can even think about trying to get them set up. First, make sure that they're incredibly clean.
03:46You don't really want any gunk left from any previous tubeless setups. Also, check the rims for
03:52any dents or dings which could hinder the ability for the tyre to seat properly. Make sure that the rim
03:58tape is tight and evenly covering the inside of the rim and make sure that your valve is inserted
04:04correctly and it's right in the bed of the rim and, potentially, in the correct direction if it
04:10needs to be. Also, just make sure you utilise the little o-ring on the valve as well. You'd be amazed
04:16at how often these little o-rings can actually make a huge difference to getting your tyre seated first
04:22time. If you're reusing valves, then pull the cores out and ensure that they're clean and they aren't
04:27gunked up on the inside. Once you've got your wheels prepped, then, without getting any sealant involved,
04:38try and mount the tyres. As always, be sure to utilise the deepest parts of the wheels to ensure
04:43that you get the maximum amount of leverage and just slowly work it all the way round. If you are able
04:50to get the tyres on from this point, then great. Get them inflated and see if you can get those tyres to
04:55pop into the bead. If you can't get the tyres onto the rim, then, actually, there are tools that can
05:05help you, like one of these tyre grabbers. Now, you can get these from places like Brand X, Lifeline or
05:10Challenge. They simultaneously hook onto the rim and grab the edge of the tyre and then, as you squeeze,
05:17it will then manoeuvre it into place. Now, as you keep working it around, you should be able to get it on,
05:23but don't be shy about putting a fair bit of force through one of these. They can absolutely save your
05:28hands so much pain and, actually, they are built to take a fair bit of strain.
05:38If you've successfully completed a dry fit on your wheels and if your sealant is fairly runny,
05:43then you can remove the valve core and inject the sealant directly into the wheel and then simply
05:48re-inflate. However, if your sealant is a bit too thick and would just coagulate inside the valve,
05:54then pop off a small section of the tyre, pour in the correct amount of sealant and then spin the
05:59wheels by 180 degrees and then work the tyre back into place. There's always one part of the tubeless
06:08setup process which always has my nerves on edge and that is when you start to introduce air for the
06:14first time to get the tyre to seat. Just remember that the pop is your friend and what I like to do to
06:24save myself from the dreaded tubeless explosion is to get the tyre to pop into place using a compressor
06:30or track pump with a recharge facility and then finish it off with a hand pump to fine-tune that
06:37pressure inside the tyre. This leads me really nicely onto my next point and that's to make sure
06:46that you monitor the pressure that is going into your tyres. You may be very used to the amount of
06:51air you've been filling your inner tubes with, however, tubeless tyres and hookless rims do have
06:57some pretty different requirements. A lot of tubeless tyres and hookless rims have a maximum pressure
07:03of around 70 psi. Of course be sure not to exceed any maximum recommended pressure but more importantly
07:11make sure the pressure is right for your combined bike and rider weight. This is how you can start
07:16to reap the benefits of running a more comfortable fast rolling tyre setup. Now I like to use the SRAM
07:22calculator to help me work out what pressure I should be putting into my tyres.
07:27One of the things that I really started to hate about tubeless setups especially during my time as a
07:37mechanic was the issues caused when the system went wrong and I must say that the time that my tubeless
07:42setup went wrong well it was a complete and utter nightmare. I had to fight with a tight fitting sealant
07:50cover tyre to drain out the remaining sealant to then try and fit an inner tube which in reality
07:55was like trying to wrestle a wet fish into a small hole. However, the mistake that I made was that
08:01I wasn't carrying any bacon strips or plugs to fill the hole that the sealant couldn't deal with.
08:06I think that if I had some of those then I probably could have sorted out the tyre fairly easily.
08:12So don't be like me, make sure you're carrying the necessary tools to fix the basic problems.
08:18I won't lie to you, I'm still pretty sceptical about running tubeless on the road. For me, simply
08:26replacing or repairing an inner tube compared to wrestling with a tight fitting sealant covered tyre
08:31when a puncture just won't seal is still my preferred option. However, I think if you ensure
08:37you carry the right tools with you, you fit tyres with a nice large volume and utilise quality sealant and
08:43also run the right pressure for your bike and ride on weight, well, you might just be okay.
08:49Is there anything though that you wish you knew before you went tubeless? Let me know down in the
08:54comments below. If you enjoyed the video then please do drop it a like, subscribe to the channel
08:58for more content and I'll see you again very soon.

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