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Activists Fight To Save Taiwan's Historic Cemeteries From Urban Development
TaiwanPlus News
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4/7/2025
Activists in Tainan are working to preserve Nanshan Cemetery, Taiwan's oldest Chinese cemetery, which is facing threats from urban development. The site holds significant tombs from the 17th century through the Japanese colonial era.
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00:00
Every spring, hundreds of thousands of Taiwanese people
00:03
travel to their families' graves
00:05
for the Qingming or Tomb Sweeping Festival.
00:08
When we were kids, my dad would take us to visit our ancestors.
00:12
It was a custom.
00:13
When I grew up, my dad might not be able to move,
00:18
so I would take my dad's place.
00:20
I think it's a legacy of blood.
00:24
It's a Han culture.
00:26
The annual tradition,
00:28
a reminder that many Taiwanese customs originating in China
00:31
once centered around ancestral veneration.
00:34
They come to places like this,
00:36
Nanshan Cemetery in the sovereign city of Tainan.
00:39
People have been building tombs here since the 17th century,
00:43
and there's evidence that the place was a burial ground
00:46
for indigenous Taiwanese long before that.
00:49
Because of local superstitions and beliefs,
00:52
funeral traditions are a sensitive subject in Taiwan.
00:56
But it's long been an interest of U.S. anthropologist
00:58
and conservationist James Morris.
01:01
What this gives us is a really great composite
01:03
of the material culture of Tainan and Tainan's history.
01:07
So we have the old, this is probably granite or andesite,
01:13
and this was used as ballast in the boats
01:15
that were trading between Jinmen, Xiamen, and Tainan.
01:20
Alongside this tomb from 1642,
01:22
the only one in Taiwan predating the fall of the Ming Dynasty,
01:26
others span the Qing Dynasty,
01:28
the Japanese colonial period, and through to today,
01:31
each reflecting the artistic styles of the time
01:34
and featuring the nation's top funerary artists.
01:38
Those Taiwanese people are now
01:40
listed as national treasures.
01:43
Chen Yu-fung, Tsai Chou-huu,
01:45
they all helped paint.
01:46
But they didn't make any money.
01:49
Because they think this is a so-called bread case.
01:51
It's a mess.
01:53
Today, like many Taiwanese cemeteries,
01:55
Nanshan Cemetery is located on the edge of the city
01:58
on real estate that used to be viewed as pretty undesirable.
02:02
But if you look at its sandy soil,
02:05
it's a clue to its past.
02:06
This area used to be by the sea
02:09
and with some mountains nearby,
02:10
that made for some pretty good feng shui.
02:13
The cemetery used to be enormous.
02:15
We are standing on a former beach, on sand dunes.
02:19
And during the Ming Dynasty,
02:21
or during the Dutch period, during the Qing period,
02:23
all of these older tombs had the luxury
02:26
of being placed around in these very distant parts
02:29
that had the perfect feng shui.
02:31
But even the most auspicious of locations
02:33
has not been enough to save these relics of local history.
02:37
Over the past two generations,
02:38
many cemeteries in Taiwan have been demolished
02:41
for urban development.
02:43
This is undeveloped land.
02:44
There's no infrastructure below the ground.
02:47
There's nothing above ground.
02:48
You don't really have to pay people
02:49
for rights to buy them out.
02:51
So that's what makes this space so threatened,
02:53
is that it's so easy for the city to see
02:56
and award contracts for development.
02:59
Academics are confident that the oldest
03:01
and grandest tombs in Nanshan Cemetery
03:03
can be preserved by working
03:05
with local historic organizations.
03:08
But there's a risk of losing the tombs
03:10
belonging to Taiwan's more marginalized groups.
03:15
If we take away the tombs of these people and children,
03:20
and only preserve the tombs of the rich families,
03:27
can we represent the 400 or 300 tombs in Tainan?
03:31
I don't think that's representative.
03:33
As the people across Taiwan conclude their annual journey
03:36
to honor their ancestors,
03:38
historic groups and academics continue working
03:40
to ensure these tombs remain for future generations.
03:44
Patrick Chen, James Lin, and Bryn Thomas, for Taiwan Plus.
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