How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 1 - Making The Clock Frames
- 6 years ago
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 1, by Clickspring.\r
\r
In this firstof the John Wilding Large Wheel Skeleton Clock build, I make a start on the project by making the frames for the clock.\r
\r
All parts of the clock (other than the mainspring), will be made from raw stock, using home shop equipment. I will also be making a lot of the tools required to complete the project, so there will be a fair bit of general machining as well as clockmaking.\r
\r
I will try to show you as much of the process as I can get on camera, so be sure to subscribe for regular videos.\r
\r
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give me a thumbs up, and a comment. If you know someone who might like this sort of video, please share it with them.\r
\r
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: \r
\r
Other Videos to Watch:\r
\r
How To Make A Clock Part 2 - Machining The Clock Pillars\r
\r
\r
How To Machine A Small Lathe Carrier\r
\r
\r
Visit the Clickspring Blog:\r
\r
\r
Ask Me A Question:\r
\r
\r
Follow Clickspring:\r
\r
\r
\r
\r
\r
\r
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Language Credits:\r
Portuguese subtitles courtesy of Emanuel Mendes\r
\r
Transcript:\r
\r
00:23 Im going to model most of the parts in CAD as I go along; it should make it easier to follow what Im doing in each video. But in this case, it also has the added benefit that I can use a printout of the model as a template to cut out the basic shape of the frame.\r
00:55 I want the frames to be an ex match, so Im cutting out both of them at the same time, using the one template. And for the time being Im using these machinist clamps to hold them together. But ideally I want to do away with these clamps, and hold the plates together\r
01:11 Using cap screws at each of the pillar hole locations. Youll see what I mean later. Before I can deal with that though, I need a way of registering the plates together so that whenever they are pulled apart they will go back together in exly the same way.\r
01:22 Im going to do that with some tapered brass clock pins. Ive decided to put one in the middle of the frame, and the other on the left leg. That should be far enough apart to give a good solid register, and resist any twist of the plates while I work on them.\r
01:40 At the very end of the project, Ill plug these holes. All going well, there should be no trace that they were ever there. The pilot holes were then opened up with a tapered broach to accept the pins. And the hole was widened until the pins could be inserted deep enough to go through both of the plates.\r
03:00 Now that the register pins are in place, the plates are reattached, the clamps put back on, and then the 3 pillar holes can be drilled out in preparation for accepting screws. I can now do away with the toolmakers clamps.\r
03:48 And tap each of the 3 holes in the bottom plate for a 6mm cap screw.\r
04:18 The tapping throws up a burr, and I want the plates to sit perfectly flush, so I deburred the inner side of the tapped holes, and then the plates were reattached by locating them on the register pins, and then this time holding them together using the cap screws.\r
04:43 Then I got to work with the scroll saw, cutting away most of the waste stock. Off camera, I drilled a little hole in this diamond shaped section, to give entry to the scroll saw blade for that inside cut.\r
05:40 Next up I used this little bench filing machine to clean up the cuts from the scroll saw, and also to clear out the corners.\r
06:25 Then I used a belt sander to bring all of the surfaces closer to the line, although I left it just a little short for final finishing.\r
07:11 The circular sections at the pillar holes need to be spot on, so Ive turned up this little filing guide from mild steel to limit the cut, and Im finishing up those areas with a fine cut file on the filing machine.\r
07:37 And then from here it was all hand finishing at the bench vise. Using files to get the curves nice and smooth and symmetrical, and to clear out and square up the corners.\r
07:57 That was followed by papering of the edges. First with 400 grit, and then 800 grit, to leave a nice surface finish.\r
08:55 Now that all of the metal has been cleared away, heres a better view of how the register pins work\r
09:03 Ill need to be able to bring the plates back together like this several times down the track, for drilling pivot holes.\r
\r
References:\r
\r
John Wilding Large Wheel Skeleton Clock construction manual:\r
\r
\r
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 1, by Clickspring.
\r
In this firstof the John Wilding Large Wheel Skeleton Clock build, I make a start on the project by making the frames for the clock.\r
\r
All parts of the clock (other than the mainspring), will be made from raw stock, using home shop equipment. I will also be making a lot of the tools required to complete the project, so there will be a fair bit of general machining as well as clockmaking.\r
\r
I will try to show you as much of the process as I can get on camera, so be sure to subscribe for regular videos.\r
\r
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give me a thumbs up, and a comment. If you know someone who might like this sort of video, please share it with them.\r
\r
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: \r
\r
Other Videos to Watch:\r
\r
How To Make A Clock Part 2 - Machining The Clock Pillars\r
\r
\r
How To Machine A Small Lathe Carrier\r
\r
\r
Visit the Clickspring Blog:\r
\r
\r
Ask Me A Question:\r
\r
\r
Follow Clickspring:\r
\r
\r
\r
\r
\r
\r
\r
Language Credits:\r
Portuguese subtitles courtesy of Emanuel Mendes\r
\r
Transcript:\r
\r
00:23 Im going to model most of the parts in CAD as I go along; it should make it easier to follow what Im doing in each video. But in this case, it also has the added benefit that I can use a printout of the model as a template to cut out the basic shape of the frame.\r
00:55 I want the frames to be an ex match, so Im cutting out both of them at the same time, using the one template. And for the time being Im using these machinist clamps to hold them together. But ideally I want to do away with these clamps, and hold the plates together\r
01:11 Using cap screws at each of the pillar hole locations. Youll see what I mean later. Before I can deal with that though, I need a way of registering the plates together so that whenever they are pulled apart they will go back together in exly the same way.\r
01:22 Im going to do that with some tapered brass clock pins. Ive decided to put one in the middle of the frame, and the other on the left leg. That should be far enough apart to give a good solid register, and resist any twist of the plates while I work on them.\r
01:40 At the very end of the project, Ill plug these holes. All going well, there should be no trace that they were ever there. The pilot holes were then opened up with a tapered broach to accept the pins. And the hole was widened until the pins could be inserted deep enough to go through both of the plates.\r
03:00 Now that the register pins are in place, the plates are reattached, the clamps put back on, and then the 3 pillar holes can be drilled out in preparation for accepting screws. I can now do away with the toolmakers clamps.\r
03:48 And tap each of the 3 holes in the bottom plate for a 6mm cap screw.\r
04:18 The tapping throws up a burr, and I want the plates to sit perfectly flush, so I deburred the inner side of the tapped holes, and then the plates were reattached by locating them on the register pins, and then this time holding them together using the cap screws.\r
04:43 Then I got to work with the scroll saw, cutting away most of the waste stock. Off camera, I drilled a little hole in this diamond shaped section, to give entry to the scroll saw blade for that inside cut.\r
05:40 Next up I used this little bench filing machine to clean up the cuts from the scroll saw, and also to clear out the corners.\r
06:25 Then I used a belt sander to bring all of the surfaces closer to the line, although I left it just a little short for final finishing.\r
07:11 The circular sections at the pillar holes need to be spot on, so Ive turned up this little filing guide from mild steel to limit the cut, and Im finishing up those areas with a fine cut file on the filing machine.\r
07:37 And then from here it was all hand finishing at the bench vise. Using files to get the curves nice and smooth and symmetrical, and to clear out and square up the corners.\r
07:57 That was followed by papering of the edges. First with 400 grit, and then 800 grit, to leave a nice surface finish.\r
08:55 Now that all of the metal has been cleared away, heres a better view of how the register pins work\r
09:03 Ill need to be able to bring the plates back together like this several times down the track, for drilling pivot holes.\r
\r
References:\r
\r
John Wilding Large Wheel Skeleton Clock construction manual:\r
\r
\r
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 1, by Clickspring.