Stefano Ghisolfi Repeats Chris Sharma's 'Demencia Senil' (9a+) | The Italian Climbing Files, Ep. 5
- 5 years ago
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Italian strong man Stefano Ghisolfi made a pilgrimage to the Spanish climbing mecca of Margalef to attempt a piece of climbing history. 'Demencia Senil' (9a+/5.15a), first established by Chris Sharma in 2009, is a monumentally steep roof climbed almost exclusively on small, sharp pockets. The brutal nature of the climbing means that it has seen relatively few repeats and even fewer since a crucial hold was broken. Stefano and fellow Italian Gabri Moroni are in Margalef to try the line, working out a new way past the broken hold and trying to dial in the insane mono-dyno that is the only way through the final section of roof. While Gabri is unsuccessful, Stefano puts in a precise redpoint effort and clips the chains. His story in Margalef is far from over however and he plans to return for another Sharma classic; 'First Round, First Minute' (9b/5.15b). So far this line has only been climbed by Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra, so a third ascent would be something truly special.
Stefano Ghisolfi Repeats Chris Sharma's 'Demencia Senil' (9a+) | The Italian Climbing Files, Ep. 5
Director: Andrea Cossu
Producer: Andrea Cossu
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WATCH THE VIDS, GET THE GEAR: Drones, Cameras, Skis, and Snowboards from GoPro, Black Diamond, Sony, K2, DJI, Völkl, ION, Union, Magicam, Dynafit, Optrix, Ride, Hitcase and more.
http://shop.epictv.com
Check out more Climbing Gear At http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/
Italian strong man Stefano Ghisolfi made a pilgrimage to the Spanish climbing mecca of Margalef to attempt a piece of climbing history. 'Demencia Senil' (9a+/5.15a), first established by Chris Sharma in 2009, is a monumentally steep roof climbed almost exclusively on small, sharp pockets. The brutal nature of the climbing means that it has seen relatively few repeats and even fewer since a crucial hold was broken. Stefano and fellow Italian Gabri Moroni are in Margalef to try the line, working out a new way past the broken hold and trying to dial in the insane mono-dyno that is the only way through the final section of roof. While Gabri is unsuccessful, Stefano puts in a precise redpoint effort and clips the chains. His story in Margalef is far from over however and he plans to return for another Sharma classic; 'First Round, First Minute' (9b/5.15b). So far this line has only been climbed by Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra, so a third ascent would be something truly special.
Stefano Ghisolfi Repeats Chris Sharma's 'Demencia Senil' (9a+) | The Italian Climbing Files, Ep. 5
Director: Andrea Cossu
Producer: Andrea Cossu
-------------------------
EpicTV is your 360 degree platform for action and adventure sports.Visit www.epictv.com for the latest episodes, discussions, gear tips, reviews, pictures, and news from the world of adventure sports.
Shop with us at: https://shop.epictv.com/ and http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/
Check us out on Social Media:
Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/WatchEpicTV
MTB: https://www.facebook.com/FreerideVideos
Climbing: https://www.facebook.com/climbingvideos
Skiing: https://www.facebook.com/freeskivideos
Snowboarding: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Snowboarding-videos/425865204214151
Twitter:
https://twitter.com/WatchEpicTV
@epictvadventure
And best of all - check out our website!
http://www.epictv.com/